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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  S^MIT 
(71«)»7i-4S03 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IVIicroraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/iMotas  tachniquat  at  bibiiographiquas 


Tha  Instituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


D 


n 


n 


n 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagia 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Rali6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  setrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  la  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttos 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  la  texte, 
mais.  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  dt6  fiim^as. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  si/ppidmentaires; 


L'Instltut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  4t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
da  cat  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographiqua,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thoda  normale  de  fllmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 

□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  eiidommagAes 

r~n    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


X 


D 


Pages  rastaur^as  et/ou  peliiculies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxec 
Pages  d6coior6es.  tachatdes  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 


ryj    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
|~~|    Pages  detached/ 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Quality  inigaie  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materia!/ 
Comprend  du  material  supplimantaira 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  6t6  film6es  A  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  fiimi  au  taux  da  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


y 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  fllm«d  h«ra  hM  b««n  r«producMl  thanks 
to  th«  ganarotity  of: 

Library  of  tha  Public 
Archivaa  of  Canada 


L'axamplaira  fiimA  fut  raproduit  grica  h  la 
gAnArosit*  da: 

La  bibiiothiqua  das  Archivas 
publiquas  du  Canada 


Tha  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  iagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  Icaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacifications. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impras> 
sion,  or  tha  bacic  covar  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  original  copiaa  ara  filmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impras- 
sion,  and  anding  on  tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad 
or  iilustratad  imprassion. 


Tha  last  recordad  frama  on  aach  microficha 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  — »» (moaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  symbol  ▼  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  appiias. 


Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  *t4  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattatA  da  l'axamplaira  fiimA,  at  an 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 

Las  axamplairas  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  en 
papiar  ast  imprimis  sont  fiimte  an  commanpant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarminant  soit  par  la 
darniAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  ia  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  axamplairas 
originaux  sont  fiii.ite  an  commandant  par  la 
pramlAi-a  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'illustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talis 
amprainta. 

Un  das  symbolas  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darnlAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microficha,  salun  la 
cas:  la  symbola  — ►  signifia  "A  SUIVRE",  la 
symbols  V  signifia  "FIN". 


Maps,  platas,  charts,  ate,  may  ba  filmad  at 
diffarant  reduction  ratios.  Thosa  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  expoaura  ara  filmad 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  framea  aa 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  da  rMuction  diffArants. 
Lorsque  ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film6  A  partir 
da  I'angia  supArieur  gauche,  do  gauche  A  droite, 
et  do  haut  an  bas,  en  prenant  la  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Las  diagrammes  suivants 
iilustranf  la  mAthoda. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

/ 


WWJIIMI|mil!UiWPiW4RINPliHMiiiq|||p|p^ 


/ 


REPORT 


*^.^ 


OF  AN 


EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY 


'4 


or  THE 


TERRITORY 


OS  THB 


AROOSTOOK    RIVER, 


DURIIfO  THE 


SPRING  AND   AUTUMN 


or 


1838. 


t^ 


By  E.    holmes. 


m- 


AUGUSTA: 
SMITH  &  ROBINSON,  PRINTERS  TO  THE  STATED 

1839. 


*■  • 


•Wir 


i.^" 


Printed  by  order  of  ilie  House  of  Representatives  of  the  State  of  Maine,  183I>. 


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STATE  OF  MAINE. 


In  Board  of  Interital  Improvements, 
April  'A  1838. 

Ordered,  That  the  Land  Agent  is  hereby  authorized  and  empowered 
to  cause  an  exploration  and  survey  of  the  Arooptook  River  and  ita 
tributary  waters  the  ensuing  year,  by  some  suitable  person  with  a  par- 
ticular reference  to  the  settlement  of  that  country  and  for  a  water 
communication  between  the  Penobscot  and  Aroostook  and  Fish  Rivers. 


B3I>. 


Land  OrncE,         \ 
May  Ist,  J  838.  S 

To  EzEKiEL  Holmes,  Esq.  of  Winthrop, 

Sir: — Pursuant  to  the  above  order  of  the  Board  of  Internal  Improve- 
ments, you  are  authorized  and  requested  to  select  suitable  assistants, 
and  proceed  as  soon  as  practicable  in  the  above  mentioned  exploration 
and  survey,  which  you  will  finish  in  such  a  manner  as  in  your  opinion 
may  best  promote  the  interest  of  the  State.  You  will  make  a  recon- 
noisance  of  the  Sebois  River  and  ascertain  the  practicability  of  a  water 
communication  between  this  river  and  La  Pompique,  also  between  the 
Little  Machias  and  Fish  Rivers,  and  at  such  other  points  on  the  Aroos- 
took between  the  St.  John  and  Penobscot  Rivers,  as  you  may  deem 
advisable.  You  will  examine  the  geology  and  mineralogy  of  the 
country,  and  present  in  your  Report  a  topographical  account  of  the 
same — describing  the  streams,  mill  sites,  mountains,  ponds,  bogs,  &c. ; 
the  growth,  quality  and  extent  of  different  soils,  and  in  what  direction 
it  will  be  advisable  to  open  roads  and  the  facilities  for  making  the 
same.  You  will  notice  the  climate,  in  what  it  differs  from  the  settled 
parts  of  the  State — ^the  adaptation  of  that  region  for  particular  products 
— the  facilities  for  boating,  and  the  transportation  of  lumber,  and  all  such 
other  particulars  as  you  may  deem  valuable.  You  are  requested  to 
return  specimens  of  minerals  and  soils  to  this  office  with  localities 
designated,  and  interesting  specimens  of  natural  history,  such  as  fossils, 
bones,  horns,  shells,  plants,  seeds,  &c.,  when  the  same  can  be  done 
without  much  inconvenience. 

ELIJAH  L.  HAMLIN,  Land  Agent 


To  the  House  of  Representatives : 

In  compliance  with  the  request  of  the  House  of  Representatives  of 
this  date,  I  herewith  lay  before  it,  "the  Report  of  Doct  Holmes,  upon  an 
Agricultural  Survey  of  the  Aroostook,  for  the  year  1838." 

JOHN  FAIRFIELD. 
Council  Chamber, 
March  21, 1839. 


||ipill||l«H.I«pVIWUp|l|)ll|ltlDVi    ' 


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Tii«w,»('  iPiiPifflim 


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PART    1. 


7b  the  Board  of  Internal  Improvements  for  the  State 

of  Maine.  -  ;  :  ? 

It  was  thought  advisable,  the  better  to  fulfil  the 
intentions  of  the  Board  of  Internal  Improven^ents 
as  expressed  in  the  foregoing  orders,  to  take  two 
different  views  of  the  country.  One  when  it  was 
under  the  influence  of  the  abundance  of  water  in 
the  spring  of  the  year,  and  the  other  when  under 
the  influence  of  the  frosts  and  partial  drought  of 
autumn.  In  an  agricultural  point  of  view,  one 
could  much  better  judge  of  tiie  nature  and  capacity 
of  the  soil,  and  the  general  capabilities  of  the  coun- 
try, by  examining  its  features  during  these  two 
seasons,  than  by  a  single  view  of  it  in  midsummer, 
when  every  thing  is  green  and  flourishing. 

Accordingly,  on  the  receipt  of  your  orders,  I 
repaired  to  Bangor  and  made  arrangements  for  the 
expedition.  . 

In  the  spring,  I  was  accompanied  by  Messrs.  J. 
Chace  and  J.  Simmons,  as  batteau  men,  and  Joe 
Tomer  to  manage  the  birch.  Capt.  R.  Smithwuck 
volunteered  to  accompany  us  gratuitously,  being 


apOTBBWjjjjpsr 


6 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OF  THE 


a 


desirous  of  examining  the  natural  history  of  that 
region. 

/  In  the  autumn,  I  was  accompanied  by  J.  Sim- 

mons and  Prince  Thomas,  as  boat-men,  and  J. 

^         Babcock  in  the   birch.      Mr.   S.  A.    Jewett,  of 
Pittston,  also  went  with  us  as  assistant. 

On  my  arrival  at  Bangor,  I  found  the  Surveyor 
General  fitting  out  a  company  to  the  same  section 
of  the  country,  for  the  purpose  of  Jotting  out  Town- 
ships No.  10  and  12,  5th  Range  on  the  Aroostook 
river,  and  we  concluded  to  put  our  forces  together, 
and  proceed  in  company  under  the  direction  of 
Capt.  Parrot. 

Our  boats  and  supplies  left  Old  Town  on  the 
21st  of  May,  and  we  took  stage  to  Mattawamkeag 
Point,  in  order  to  meet  them  there  and  proceed  up 
the  Penobscot,  it  being  our  design  to  go  up  the 
Sebois,  a  branch  of  the  Penol  scot,  carry  across 
the  portage  into  La  Pompique,  and  thence  down 
the  Aroostook  to  the  place  of  destination,  viz : 
No.  10,  there  make  a  general  depot  for  our  sup- 
plies, and  each  party  divide  off  to  perform  their 
respective  duties.  ,^ 

Desultory  observations  on  improving  the  navigation  of  the 
Penobscot  River. — Beconnoisance  of  the  La  Pompique, 
and  portage  tJtence  to  the  Sebois. — Reconnoisance  of  the 
lAttle  Machias  Riverj  and  the  portage  thence  to  the 
Eagle  Lakes.      ..■■,. :\.-i  -:x':m'i.  i..^iW-i-  it  .:■;:. t;< -a  ,*.;;»;:. 

"  In  order  to  render  the  Penobscot  river  safe  and 
easy  for  boating,  two  things  are  necessary ; — either 
to  canal  from  Bangor  to  the  Lakes  above,  or  to 


4 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY.  % 

create  slack  water  navigation  by  means  of  a  series  of 
dams  and  locks.  The  latter  is  much  more  feasible 
and  economical.  The  existing  obstacles  which 
present  themselves  to  the  present  navigation  of  this 
river,  are,  the  "rips,"  which  are  occasioned  prin- 
cipally by  loose  boulders  of  rocks — and  the  **  falls," 
occasioned  by  the  occurrence  of  ledges  crossing  its 
bed  and  intercepting  its  waters.  As  a  general  thing, 
there  is  an  abundance  of  water  throughout  the  year 
for  the  ordinary  purposes  of  boating  in  light  bat- 
teaus,  but  not  always  enough  to  run  large  quantities 
of  logs  and  heavy  lumber.  ^ 

The  first  most  important  tributary  to  this  noble 
river,  is  the  Piscataquis,  which  enters  it  at  right 
angles  on  the  western  side,  thirty-six  miles  above 
the  city  of  Bangor.  The  dam  and  lock  at  the 
mouth  of  this  stream,  erected  by  the  enterprise  of 
Mr.  Miller,  if  I  mistake  not,  demonstrate  the  utility 
of  such  improvements;  and  the  practicability  of 
them  as  adapted  to  these  waters,  is  fairly  tested  by 
the  ease  and  safety  with  which  boats  and  rails 
descend  or  ascend  the  falls  at  this  place,  once  so 
difficult  to  navigate.  Between  Bangor  and  Matta- 
wamkeag  Point,  no  particular  examination  was 
made. 

The  Mattawamkeag  enters  the  Penobscot  on  the 
east  side,  sixty  miles  above  Bangor.   «  >  ^ 

The  point  formed  by  the  junction  of  these  rivers 
was  not  long  ago  the  site  of  a  large  Indian  village. 
It  is  an  elevated  alluvial  plain,  and  commands  three 
views  of  the  two  rivers, — viz:  up  and  down  the 


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fr'    '♦.; 


8 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


Penobscot  and  up  the  Mattawamkeag.  This  last 
named  stream  is  an  extensive  one.  It  in  fact  drains 
nearly  the  whole  region  of  country  south  of  the 
Aroostook  and  its  tributaries.  It  is  about  320  feet 
wide  at  this  place,  and  the  Penobscot  is  nearly  600 
feet  in  width.  A  short  distance  above  the  roouth> 
as  you  proceed  up  the  Penobscot,  the  slate  rock 
crops  out  on  the  bank  as  it  crosses  the  river,  but 
occasions  no  change  in  the  current.  The  water 
between  this  and  "  Nickatou,"  or  "  crotch"  of  the 
river,  is  very  good  for  boating,  but  as  you  enter  the 
east  branch,  large  granite  boulders  occur,  which 
cause  a  pretty  strong  rapid  when  the  water  is  high. 
It  is  sometimes  necessary  to  warp  boats  by.  These 
boulders  may  be  very  easily  removed,  and  as  no  other 
cause  to  produce  the  rapids  is  visible^  I  conclude 
they  would  cease  on  removing  them.  From  this 
place  it  is  very  good  boating  at  the  common  pitch  of 
water,  until  you  come  to  the  foot  of  what  is  called 
"  Ledge  Falls."  These  are  caused  by  slate  rocks 
crossing  the  river.  Here  a  dam  and  lock  would  be 
necessary.  The  site  for  a  dam  is  very  good  indeed, 
and  as  it  is  a  good  situation  for  mills,  the  expense 
would  undoubtedly  oe  indemnified  by  the  use  of  the 
water  for  that  purpose.  We  found  it  necessary  to 
warp  our  boats  up  here.  These  rapids  are  not  far 
from  the  south  line  of  Township  No.  1,  7th  Range. 
Above  this  the  water  is  somewhat  sluggish  for  some 
distance,  and  the  boating  is  good  until  you  come  to  a 
place  called  '  'Rocky  Rips.^ '  Here  is  a  strong  rapid. 
It  in  formed  by  the  slate  rock — a  somewhat  talcose 


■^r-.-';< 


lis  Isist 
drains 
of  the 
^0  feet 
ly  600 
noiith» 
6  rock 
er,  but 
water 
of  the 
Ler  the 
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These 

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m  this 
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called 
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>uld  be 
indeed, 
xpense 
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ir  some 
me  to  a 

1  rapid, 
talcose 


t 


AllOOSTOOK  TERRITORY.  9 

slate,  impregnated  with  small  quantities  of  lime. 
The  strata  run  parallel  with  the  river,  or  rather  the 
river  runs  parallel  with  them,  and  has  worn  for 
itself  a  channel  of  about  200  feet  in  width. 

The  western  bank  is  not  very  high,  but  it  rises 
abruptly  from  the  water,  while  the  eastern  is  much 
lower.  Here  is  also  a  good  site  for  mills.  Two 
dams  would  be  necessary  to  slacken  the  water,  or  a 
short  canal  might  be  constructed  around  the  falls. 
We  found  it  necessary  to  take  out  a  part  of  our 
load  and  warp  the  boats  up.  Above  these  falls  it 
is  good  boating  for  a  mile  or  two,  when  you  come 
to  the  foot  of  **  Grindstone  Falls."  At  this  place 
the  river  has  worn  a  trough  through  the  ledge  which 
is  parallel  to  the  course  of  tli^  current.  The  banks 
on  each  side  are  rough  and  precipitous.  The  slate 
of  which  this  ledge  is  composed,  like  the  last  men- 
tioned, is  somewhat  talcose  and  contains  lime. 
Masses  of  grauwacke  are  also  found  here.  The 
rock  is  much  decomposed  and  the  fragments  or 
"  shingle"  "cover  the  shores  to  some  extent. 

Near  the  shores,  the  ledge  comes  up  to  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  and  there  is  of  course  a  little  soil 
upon  it.  There  are  several  good  sites  here  for 
dams,  either  for  mills  or  for  slack  water,  or  for  both. 
The  portage  here  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length, 
and  the  chance  for  an  inclined  plane  and  railway 
around  the  falls,  is  very  good  indeed.  This  would 
undoubtedly  be  the  best  and  most  economical  mode 
of  overcoming  the  obstacles  to  the  navigation  of 
the  river  at  this  place. 

2 


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AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THIT 


.  Above  these  falls  we  had  very  good  boating  for  half 
a  day — say  six  or  eight  miles  distance,  when  we 
came  to  "Whetstone  Falls.''  The  river  here 
crosses  the  ledge  at  right  angles,  which  crops  out  on< 
both  sides  of  the  river,  and  is  of  the  same  character 
as  that  mentioned  above.  Here  is  a  very  good  sit- 
uation for  dams,  and  also  a  very  good  site  for  an 
inclined  plane  and  railway  around  the  /alls,  whicb 
I  think  would  be  the  better  way  to  surmount  them. 
The  portage  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  over 
which  we  found  it  necessary  to  carry  our  cargo,  but 
the  boats  were  warped  up  over  the  rapids  or  falls.  < 
From  this  you  have  a  long  reach  of  smooth  water 
which  affords  very  good  boating.  The  country 
also  improves  in  appearance,  for,  instead  of  the  burnt 
trees  and  sterile  rocks  which  mark  much  of  the 
country  for  some  miles  below,  a  hard  wood  growtb 
appears,  patches  of  interval  shew  themselves,  and 
the  upland  in  the  rear  of  them  is  evidently  of  a  good 
quality.  This  appearance  continues  until  you  come 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Wassataquick,  which  enters 
the  Penobscot  on  the  west  side.  Around  the 
mouth  of  this  stream  is  a  large  body  of  interval! 
land,  while  on  the  opposite  side,  on  the  east,  the 
land  rises  gradually  into  a  large  aweli,  covered  with 
hard  wood.  Two  settlers,  Messrs.  Hunt  and 
Dace,  have  got  very  good  farms  under  cultivation 
here.  They  are  at  present  the  highest  up  of  any 
on  this  branch  of  the  Penobscot,  and  are  the  last 
inhabitants  that  the  traveller  finds  as  he  proceed» 
up  the  river,  /'-^.^y  i^im-'iM^.         ■  -mfj 


m. 


'infqppq^ippiliMPinMii^iiwqvipUlilW.     » 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY.      '  ^l 

tt  may  be  well  to  remark  here,  that  the  tra^ 
Wassi^yiguick  is  called  East  Branch  on  Greenleaf  s 
map  of^aine,  and  the  true  East  Branch  is  called 
Wassata^fOtek.  The  water  continues  good  for 
boating  until  you  come  to  the  mouth  of  the  Sebois. 
This  branch  enters  the  Penobscot  from  the  east, 
and  takes  its  rise  in  several  large  lakes  which  are 
near  the  waters  of  the  Aroostook. 

The  land  around  its  mouth  is  of  that  description 
knawn  by  the  name  of  low  interval.  From  this 
place,  as  you  continue  up  the  Penobscot,  the  water 
lieoomes  quick  and  the  boating  hard,  and  it  contin- 
ues thus  until  you  arrive  at  the  foot  of  the  **  Grand 
Falls"  of  the  East  Branch. 
^  One  or  two  low  dams  between  this  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Sebois,  would  be  of  essential  service 
in  checking  the  force  of  the  current  and  rendering 
it  more  easily  navigated. 

When  we  left  Bangor,  it  was  our  intention  to 
proceed  up  the  Sebois  river,  and  enter  the  Aroos^ 
took  by  the  La  Pbmpique;  but,  on  consultation  with 
the  boatmen,  it  was  thought  best  to  continue  up  the 
east  branch  of  Penobscot  into  Montagamon  Lake, 
thence  up  Hay  Brook,  and  carry  across  the  portage 
into  Millinoketsis,  a  lake  of  the  Aroostook.  This 
course,  in  order  to  comply  as  near  as  I  could  with 
my  otders,  would  render  it  necessary  for  me  to  g6 
up  the  La  Pompique  from  the  Aroostook,  and  across? 
to  the  Sebois  to  examine  the  ground  and  ascertain 
the  practicability  of  'connecting  the  two  waters. 
But  as  the  route  proposed  was  thought  to  be  easier 


ip 


A 


12 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


for  the  men,  and  would  give  me  a  chance  of  seeing 
more  of  the  Aroostook  valley  than  the  other,  I 
acquiesced  in  the  arrangement  and  kept  in  company 
with  them. 

The  **  Grand  Falls,"  as  they  are  called,  are  a 
series  of  falls  or  rapids,  continuing  for  about  two 
miles  through  a  narro\/  channel  worn  in  the  rocks, 
the  strata  of  which  cross  the  river  and  render  it 
formidable  and  dangerous  for  boats  to  encounter. 
The  first  pitch  of  water  is  near  the  mouth  of  Bow- 
ling Brook,  which  is  a  small  but  wild  and  troubled 
stream  entering  from  the  east.  The  country  in  this 
region  presents  a  dreary  and  barren  aspect.  For- 
merly a  heavy  pine  growth  existed  here,  but  the  fires 
have  swept  it  away  and  left  the  rocks  completely 
bare,  except  occasionally  a  blackened  and  branch- 
less trunk  lifts  itself  up,  as  if  to  make  the  utter 
desolation  of  the  scene  still  more  striking. 

On  carefully  examining  this  spot,  it  is  evident 
that  the  best,  and  indeed  the  only  rational  mode  of 
overcoming  the  obstructions  which  are  presented, 
and  which  are  the  greatest  in  the  whole  distance 
from  Bangor  to  the  lakes,  is  by  means  of  an  inclined 
plane  and  railway.  This  may  be  placed  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river  where  is  a  good  site  for  it. 

Dams  could  be  constructed  here  without  much 
trouble,  but  it  would  be  necessary  to  have  several, 
and  in  some  of  the  places  where  they  would  be 
needed  the  river  is  too  narrow  and  too  much  pent 
up  to  give  room  for  the  locks.  At  a  slack  place  in 
the  water  below  the  upper  pitch,  and  also  at  the 


'■fe- 


"""""•^PIPPWWW 


f/imm^mmm 


mmm 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


13 


seeing 
ler,  I 
mpany 

area 
ut  two 

rocks, 
nder  it 

unter. 
fBow- 
roubled 

in  this 
For- 
he  fires 
ipletely 
^ranch- 
e  utter 

evident 
node  of 
isented, 
listance 
inclined 
on  the 
•it. 

t  much 
several, 
ould  be 
ch  pent 
)lace  in 
}  at  the 


upper  pitch  of  water,  some  lumbermen  have  con- 
structed temporary  dams  for  the  purpose  of  com- 
manding the  water  while  running  their  logs  down, 
and  they  find  them  to  be  of  essential  service  in  this 
kind  of  business.  '  -  ^f^^  -^w 

'  The  rock  formation  here,  is  slate  intermingled 
with  grauwacke.  Boulders  of  porphyry  occasion- 
ally shew  themselves,  and  large  masses  of  conglom- 
erate or  puddingstone  are  strewed  around  in  abun- 
dance. The  granite  boulders  which  we  occasionally 
met  with  on  our  way  up,  have  disappeared  some 
distance  below.  -. .  v, 

;  One  of  these  puddingstone  boulders  was  found 
by  Capt.  Smithwick,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river, 
measuring  six  paces  in  breadth,  seven  paces  in 
length,  and  more  than  eight  feet  in  height.  From 
the  size  of  them  it  may  be  inferred  that  they  have 
not  travelled  far  from  tl*eir  original  location.  The 
mountains  at  a  short  distance  in  the  rear,  are 
undoubtedly  formed  in  part  or  wholly  of  this  kind  of 
rock.  We  had  not  time  to  go  to  them  and  ascertain 
the  facts.  The  boulder  above  mentioned  contained 
pieces  of  jasper,  and  also  adularia  in  small  frag- 
ments. :^^l-!t^i:i^ 

',  Near  the  head  of  the  falls,  on  the  east  side,  are 
fi>nnd  large  boulders  of  secondary  limestone.  As 
a  similar  limestone  was  discovered  by  our  able 
State  Geologist,  Dr.  Jackson,  last  year,  on  the 
Sebois,  it  is  not  impossible  that  they  are  derived 
from  the  same  formation,  and  probably,  when  the 
country  between  these  two  rivers  shall  be  cleared 


14 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


r- 


up,  large  tracts  of  limestone  formation  will  be  found 
in  place.  «.iiii*  « 

.**  After  completing  the  portage  of  our  cargo,  and 
launching  our  boats  once  more  at  the  head  of  the 
falls,  we  found  smooth,  dead,  or  rather  sluggish 
water,  occasioned  undoubtedly  by  the  dams  which 
we  had  passed.  This  continued  for  nearly  a  mile, 
perhaps  more.  It  then  became  more  qnick  and  so 
continued  until  we  had  arrived  at  ''Stair  Falls." 
This  is  a  rapid,  occasioned  by  a  formation  of  trap 
rock  which  crosses  the  river  at  right  angles  with  its 
course,  and  causes  four  or  five  cascades  of  moderate 
height,  like  a  low  flight  of  stairs.  We  found  it 
necessary  to  warp  our  boats  up  them.  A  dam  and 
lock  would  be  necessary  to  flow  out  the  rapids  at 
this  place.  Above  this  we  again  came  to  sluggish 
water,  which  continued  for  half  a  mile.  The 
scenery  as  you  pass  up  the  river  here,  shifting  and 
rarying  at  every  turn  of  the  stream,  is  very  beautiful. 
A  mile  or  two  above  this  is  a  large  lake,  known  by 
the  Indian  name,  Montagamon,  at  the  foot  of  which 
a  strong  dam  has  been  built.  This  enables  the  lum- 
bermen to  flow  the  lake  in  the  spring  of  the  year  while 
they  raft  their  logs  down^  and  also  to  increase  the 
water  below  when  they  open  the  gates  to  let  their 
lumber  through,  thus  causing  an  artificial  freshet 
which  assists  them  in  their  whole  route  to  the  mills 
below.  Half  a  mile  bek)w  this  dam  the  water  begins 
to  run  very  strong,  and  continues  to  run  more  and 
more  rapidly  until  you  reach  the  foot  of  the  dam, 
A  low  dam  across  the  river  at  the  commencement 


}  found 

,  and 
of  the 
uggish 

which 
a  mile, 
and  so 
I'alls." 
of  trap 
vith  its 
>derate 
and  it 
im  and 
pids  at 


The 
ng  and 
aatifuL 
)wn  by 
*  which 
leluni- 
r  while 
ise  the 
it  their 
freshet 
e  mills 
begins 
re  and 
i  dam, 
;ement 


I   M\mtt^mnwmnw.iiii.imif*m9mimv  i  >i|N.iinpmipi|HiMniiinp|pippiin 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


15 


of  the  rapids,  would  be  of  service  in  improving  the 
navigation  of  this  part  of  the  river,  and  a  lock  would 
be  necessary  in  the  large  dam  at  the  outlet  of  the 
)ake,  to  lifl  the  boats  into  it.  i  ^i 

The  Montagamon  lake  is  a  large  and  extensive 
body  of  water,  containing  some  fine  islands.  It  is 
surrounded  by  some  large  heights  of  land  as  well 
as  by  moderate  swells.  There  is  in  the  vicinity  a 
good  growth  of  pine  timber,  from  which  son^e  of  the 
finest  lumber  that  now  floats  on  the  Penobscot 
waters  is  obtained.  Here  ended  our  hasty  and 
imperfect  examination  of  the  Penobscot.  Just 
beyond  this  lake  we  turned  out  into  a  small  tribu- 
tary called  **  Hay  Brook,"  which  comes  into  the 
stream  that  connects  the'  J^Iontagamon  with  the 
lake  above.  This  brook  takes  its  rise  near  the  head 
waters  of  the  Aroostook,  and  enters  the  Penobscot 
waters  from  the  east. 

The  examination,  as  I  have  just  stated,  was  both 
hasty  and  desultory,  as  we  were  anxious  to  get  to 
our  place  of  deposit  as  soon  as  possible,  and  could 
not  detain  the  men  and  boats  for  the  purpose  of 
taking  admeasurements  or  looking  minutely  into  all 
that  offered  worthy  of  examination.  It  has  estab- 
lished, however,  in  my  own  mind,  the  importance 
of  improving  the  navigation  of  the  river,  and  con- 
vinced me  that  it  is  perfectly  feasible.  And  I  would 
respectfully  recommend,  that  at  as  early  a  day  as 
possible,  the  Board,  by  consent  of  the  Legislature, 
should  order  a  thorough  and  critical  survey  of  the 
Penobscot  river  with  a  view  of  ascertaining  2 — 1st. 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 

A  more  complete  topographical  knowledge  of  it; 
and  2d.  What  would  be  requisite  for,  and  the  cost 
of  rendering  it  boatable  with  ease  and  safety. 

Indeed  it  is  a  matter  of  astonishment  to  me,  that, 
while  many  other  of  our  water  courses,  by  no 
means  to  be  compared  with  this  noble  stream,  have 
been  surveyed  by  skilful  Engineers,  this,  which  has 
contributed  and  still  contributes  more  than  any 
other  one,  to  the  strength,  the  wealth,  the  prosperity 
and  importance  of  our  State,  lias  hitherto  been 
totally  neglected.  There  is  no  river  in  Maine  that 
waters  such  an  extent  of  country,  or  flows  through 
such  a  diversity  of  soil  as  this.  Every  step  there- 
fore in  improving  it,  would  tend  to  bring  the  interior 
nearer  to  th6  focus  of  trade,  and  be  opening  as  it  were 
an  additional  avenue  to  the  resources  of  our  country, 
and  thereby  foster  its  growing  powers.  Population 
would  then,  instead  of  crowding  our  seaboard,  or 
hovering  around  our  already  thickly  settled  towns, 
stretch  itself  forth  into  what  is  now  the  wilderness, 
clear  for  itself  new  farms,  and  build  new  towns 
and  villages,  knowing  that  the  communications  to  a 
market  were  open  at  all  times,  and  feeling  that  they 
were  not  wholly  isolated  from  the  rest  of  the  human 
family. 

If  no  other  improvements  could  be  effected,  it 
would  be  a  praiseworthy  object  for  the  State  to 
assist  in  constructing  good  roads  over  the  several 
portages  around  the  several  falls.  Let  such  roads 
be  properly  and  permanently  made — camps  or 
buildings  of  a  cheap  but  durable  kind  erected  at 


i 


IIIWHil.    llJ|p|f^l«ppiippi|ll|^<^>WHnH 


'mm 


% 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


l» 


f  d 


of  it; 
le  cost 

• 

»,  that, 
by  no 
n,  have 
ch  has 
in  any 
sperity 

0  been 
ne  that 
broogh 
)  there- 
interior 
it  were 

toontry, 
pulalion 
)arcl,  or 

towns, 
lerness, 

towns 
>ns  to  a 
lat  they 

human 

icted,  it 
Itate  to 
several 

1  roads 
Dps  or 
xted  at 


i 


suitable  distances,  and  strong  hand  carts  or  trucks 
placed  there  for  the  use  of  those  who  need. 

This  would  be  a  great  convenience  for  those 
whose  business  may  lead  them  up  the  Penobscot. 
Perhaps  this  may  appear  like  an  idle  scheme  to 
many,  but  there  cannot  be  the  least  doubt,  that,  had 
the  State  done  these  things  fifteen  years  ago,  they 
would  have  yielded  more  than  ten  per  cent,  inter- 
est on  the  cost  of  construction  and  repairs  by  the 
very  saving  in  labor  and  time  spent  in  getting  sup- 
plies and  men  to  and  from  the  public  lands,  for 
surveys  and  explorations  and  other  necessary  expen- 
ditures connected  with  the  care  of  the  public 
domains,  while  the  benefits  and  savings  to  private 
enterprise  would  have  been  immense.  One  unac- 
quainted with  the  facts  can  hardly  have  a  conception 
of  the  severe  labor  that  men  undergo  in  carrying 
boafo  and  supplies  over  these  portages,  or  ''carrys," 
as  they  are  called. 

;  Every  thing  must  be  done  by  maiii  strength,  and 
that  cannot  always  be  laid  out  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. Oftentimes  they  are  compelled  to  pick  their 
way,  where,  though  frequently  crossed  before,  there 
is  not  a  sign  or  vestige  of  a  footstep  or  path,  and 
where  a  slip  of  the  foot,  loaded  as  they  are,  would 
be  inevitable  death.  It  is  true,  that  the  men  usu- 
ally employed  in  this  work  are  hardy  and  inured  to 
the  business,  but  this  is  no  reason  why  they  should 
be  compelled  to  continually  act  as  beasts  of  burden, 
when  a  little  assistance  from  the  State  would  changer 
the  routine  of  operations,  and  make  what  is  now 


> 


18 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OF  THE 


a  most  laborious  and  oflentimes  hazardons  task,  one 
of  comparatively  easy  performance. 

We  found  Hay  Brook  to  be  a  crooked  stream, 
at  first  skirted  with  larches,  or  hacmatacks,  as  this 
growth  is  most  commonly  called.  Afler  leaving 
this  growth,  you  find  the  course  of  the  stream  lies 
through  a  tract  of  **  Brook  Interval,"  forming  a 
natural  meadow,  from  which  hay  is  annually  taken 
to  supply  the  teams  of  lumbermen.  This  circum- 
stance probably  gave  the  name  to  the  brook  up 
which  we  were  passing.  After  passing  these  mead- 
ows, on  the  right  bank,  you  find  the  slate  rock 
cropping  out  and  running  in  nearly  an  easterly  direc- 
tion^  while  its  strata  are  nearly  perpendicular,  both 
of  which  are  circumstances  not  in  conformity  with 
the  direction  and  dip  of  the  rock  further  below. 

Soon  after  this,  yon  come  to  a  ridge  on  the  left, 
of  sandy  soil  covered  with  a  thrifly  growth  of  Nor- 
way pines.  At  the  south  point  of  this  ridge  there 
is  a  small  rapid,  where  would  be  needed  a  dam  about 
two  rods  long,  and  a  lock.  Afler  yon  pass  this  the 
stream  widens  and  becomes  more  sluggish,  and 
continuing  on  for  about  half  a  mile  further,  yon  come 
to  another  rapid,  more  strong  and  much  longer  than 
the  last.  The  stream  here  forces  its  way  for  thirty 
or  forty  rods  through  a  narrow  passage  in  the  rockf» 
and  is  so  obstructed  with  windfalls  and  loose  rocks, 
that  we  found  it  necessary  to  unload  the  boats  of 
their  cargo  and  carry  it  by,  but  the  boats  were 
warped  up,  lifting  them  occasionally  over  the  obtt»* 
des  which  choked  the  channel. 


^ 


mmmmmm 


wmmmmm 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


19 


iky  one 

treaiD, 
18  ihii 
eaving 
m  lies 
ning  a 
taken 
ircnm- 
x>k  up 
I  mead- 
;e  rock 
jrdirec- 
r,  both 
ty  with 
jlow. 
he  left, 
>f  Nor- 
;e  there 
naboat 
this  the 
ih,  and 
on  come 
ret  than 
>r  thirty 
erocksy 
e  rocksy 
boats  of 
ts  were 
eobtta- 


It  would  be  necessary  to  construct  at  least  two 
short  dams  with  locks,  in  order  to  slaken  the  water, 
and  to  clear  oat  the  loose  rocks  and  logs  which  lie 
in  the  way.  Above  this  place,  the  stream  bec(»mes 
mnch  more  serpentine  or  winding,  and  the  boats 
are  also  impeded  in  their  progress  by  the  alder 
bushes,  which,  growing  on  each  side,  lean  oVer  to 
nearly  a  horizontal  position  across  the  water.  There 
appears  to  be  a  good  supply  of  water,  and  the  chan- 
nel may  be  very  mnch  improved  by  straightening  it 
by  digging  a  new  channel.  The  soil  being  alluvial 
will  allow  this  to  be  done  very  easily.  With  the 
exception  of  windfalls  and  leaning  alder  bushes,  no 
other  obstructions  exist  until  you  come  to  the  portage 
or  carrying  place  between  this  and  the  Aroostook 
waters.  This  portage  is  upon  a  gradual  swell  of  hard 
wood  land,  and  is  two  hundred  and  eighty-six  rods 
in  length.  On  the  northerly  side  lies  "  Millino- 
ketsis,"  a  beautiful  lake  about  a  mile  in  length,  and 
two  or  three  miles  long.  At  the  head  of  this  lake 
lies  a  large  bog,  which  bends  around  the  foot  of  the 
swell  of  land,  and  through  which  a  passage  might 
be  cut  into  Hay  Brook.  For  reasons  hereafter  to 
be  given,  I  do  not  however  consider  this  the  most 
eligiblb  place  for  connecting  the  Aroostook  and 
Penobscot  rivers. 

The  Millinoketsis  empties  itself  into  a  dead 
stream  forty  or  fifly  feet  wide,  which  continues 
thus  for  about  two  miles,  when  it  becomes  some- 
what narrower  and  more  rapid  in  its  current.  It 
also  becomes  choked  with  windfalls  and  jams  of 


s. 


■£m 


20 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


logs,  and  the  sides  are  skirted  viiih  leaning 
alders,  which  obstruct  the  passage  of  boats  very 
mach. 

These  alders  grow  to  the  length  of  twenty  or 
thirty  feet,  and  being  loaded  with  snow  during  the 
winter,  become  fixed  in  nearly  a  horizontal  position. 
Their  branches  become  interwoven  with  thode  of 
the  opposite  side,  and  thus  cover  the  waters  of  a 
stream  in  some  places  forty  feet  wide,  and  are  a 
serious  impediment  to  boatmen,  especially  when 
their  leaves  and  branches  are  wet.  The  borders 
of  this  stream  are  also  covered  with  cedars,  "pump- 
kin" and  sapling  pines,  6cc.  It  continues  to  be 
occasionally  encumbered  with  windfalls  until  you 
come  into  the  next  lake,  Millinoket,  and  in  order 
to  improve  it  for  boating,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
construct  two  dams  between  these  two  lakes,  by 
which  to  flow  out  the  rises  that  are  founds— to  clear 
out  the  channel  by  taking  out  the  loose  rocks  and 
windfalls,  and  to  cut  away  the  tangled  growth  on 
the  sides.  The  average  width  is  about  forty  feet, 
and  its  average  depth  is  not  far  from  three  feet,     .r^, 

Millinoket  is  a  large  sheet  of  water,  surrounded 
on  all  sides  by  ridges  and  swells  of  land  which  are 
covered  with  a  mixed  growth  of  hard  and  soft 
wood.  This  land  offers,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  judge 
at  a  distance,  tracts  of  good  soil  for  cultivation. 
Proceeding  in  a  northeasterly  course  you  enter  the 
outlet,  which  for  half  a  mile  is  a  broad,  smooth 
stream.  You  then  come  to  a  slight  rapid,  encum- 
bered with  a  jam  of  logs  and  windfalls,  forming  an 


I 


■,^f^'. 


^mm^^mm 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


21 


obstniction  across  the  \i\'hoIe  stream.  It  would  be 
necessary  to  cot  and  clear  oat  these,  in  order  to 
open  the  channel. 

Below  this  we  found  one  or  two  small  <'rips," 
and  occasionally  the  obstructions  before  mentioned, 
viz :  windfalls  and  bushes,  lodging  across  from  bank 
to  bank.  After  passing  these,  we  came  to  still 
water  again  for  half  a  mile,  and  then  entered  the 
main  Aroostook.  A  dam  at  the  head  of  this  slack 
water  would  probably  flow  back  into  the  lake,  and 
thus  render  it  boatable  from  the  main  river  to  the 
Millinoket.  -'•  *     '^  "■-  • 

We  found  the  waters  of  the  Aroostook  swollen 
to  a  high  pitch  by  the  rains  which  had  poured  upon 
US  most  generously  on  our  way  up,  and  they  swept 
our  boats  along  with  a  strong  but  smooth  current. 

About  a  mile  above  a  branch,  called  the  Moose- 
luck,  we  came  to  a  formidable  rapid  which  con- 
tinued for  some  distance.  Here  we  came  very  near 
losing  one  of  our  boats  by  its  striking  a  rock.  On  vis- 
iting the  spot  again  in  the  autumn,  when  the  water 
was  very  low,  we  found  the  cause  of  this  rapid  to  be 
a  dyke  or  wall  of  puddingstone  conglomerate  crossing 
the  river  at  right  angles.  A  small  island  is  formed 
in  the  middle  of  the  river.  The  narrow  channel  ii 
on  the  right  as  you  pass  down,  and  in  the  led  channel 
between  the  island  and  the  main  land  is  this  per- 
pendicular '*  ledge,"  extending  across  and  forming 
a  natural  dam.  It  is  five  or  six  feet  thick  and 
four  or  five  feet  high.  In  the  spring  of  the  year, 
during  the  freshets,  the  water  rushes  over  it-. with 


_^ 


•«f 


n 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OF  THE 


great  force.  It  it  from  this  undoubtedly,  that 
the  boulders  of  puddingstone  i/vhich  are  found 
80  abundantly  on  the  Aroostook  as  you  coast  down 
it,  were  derived.  There  is,  however,  no  very  bad 
rapid  in  the  river  below  this  until  you  come  to  the 
Grand  Falls,  about  two  miles  or  more  from  its 


mouth. 


r  '••.  < 


'll  '.iV'tA'    '<Ai'--t\  'fV'fjV 


» .  J    ' « .»'•■# 


/,.  ,^'r:' 


Reconnoiaance  qf  the  La  Pompique.  ^ 

After  depositing  our  supplies  at  the  camp,  ill 
No.  10,  we  returned  up  the  Aroostook  for  the  pur- 
pose of  examining  the  La  Pompique,  or,  as  the 
Indians  pronounce  it.  La  Bombique,  and  the  land 
between  it  and  the  Sebois. 

The  La  Pompique  is  a  comparatively  small 
stream,  entering  the  Aroostook  on  the  south  side, 
in  township  No.  9,  Range  7th.  Its  banks  are  low, 
and  encumbered  with  alders  and  leaning  bushes, 
which  obstruct  the  passage  of  boats.  Jams  of  logs, 
and  loose  boulders  of  slate-rock  and  puddingstone, 
also  obstruct  the  navigation  of  it,  and  make  one  or 
two  portages  neceissary  for  the  purpose  of  avoiding 
them.  No  ledges  or  rock  formations  were  observed, 
in  place,  all  being  loose  and  easily  removed.  The 
volume  of  water  which  passes  down  it,  in  ordinary 
seasons,  is  sufficient  for  the  cominon  purposes  of 
boating  in  this  region,  which  is  with  batteaux,  but 
in  times  of  drought  it  must  be  rather  low  and  occa- 
idon  difficulty  to  get  up  or  down  it.  Near  the  head 
of  the  stream  are  two  branches,  which  by  being 


. .  l- 


^■HWWP" 


-mmimmimmK 


mm' 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 

cleared  might  add  much  to  the  anionnt  of  water. 
The  distance  between  the  La  Pompique  and  lh<j 
Sebois  Lake  it  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  (brty- 
eight  feet,  or  one  hundred  and  fifli-four  rods  nearly. 
The  land  on  the  margin  of  the  Sebois  is  quite  low 
and  wet,  and  by  digging  a  canal  of  moderate  depth, 
it  might  be  brought  ten  or  fideen  rods  nearer  the 
La  Pompique  with  ease.  The  land  between  the 
two  waters  is  a  low  tract  covered  with  a  cedar,  fir 
and  spruce  growth. 

On  taking  the  level  across  we  found  the  La 
Pompique  to  be  seven  feet,  seven  inches  and  nine- 
tenths  higher  than  the  Sebois.* 

There  would  be  no  difficulty  in  forming  a  canal 
between  the  two  on  account  of  the  nature  of  the 
soil,  as  there  Is  evidently  no  rocks  of  any  conse- 
quence or  other  obstacles  to  render  digging  difficult. 
One  lock  only  would  be  needed. 

The  expense  of  constructing  a  canal  and  lock 
might  be  estimated  at  .         , 
Viz:  Digging  and  removing,  ssiy  2302B      2^j    ) 
cubic  yards  (^f  earth,  at  10  cents 
per  yard,  $2,S02  90 

Constructing  lock,  1,500 

j!3,802  ^<l 

An  objection  however,  meets  you  on  the  threshola 

which  renders  the  policy  of  constructing  a  canal 

across   exceedingly  questionable.    From   appear- 


•    *  The  pisn  and  profile  of  the  route  aeroM  ie  deposited  with  the  Botr4 
•f  latek 'III  ImproTemente.  ...  ^tuj«.» 


\s 


24 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


ances,  and  sach  indications  as  could  be  observed,  I 
am  led  to  the  conclusion  that  there  would  be  hardly 
water  enough  in  the  L^  Pom  pique  to  serve  as  a 
feeder.  The  branch  of  the  La  Pompique  which 
comes  nearest  to  the  Sebois  arises  in  a  bog  and  is 
rendered  sluggish  in  its  current  by  an  old  beaver 
dam  below.  It  is  possible  that  if  a  high  dam  were 
built  below  the  mouths  of  the  two  tributaries,  a 
sufficient  supply  might  be  obtained.  It  is  doubtful^ 
however,  in  my  mind,  if  a  canal,  even  could  that 
be  effected,  would  be  the  better  medium  of  commu- 
nication. A  railroad,  under  all  the  circumstances, 
offers  the  best  mode  of  overcoming  the  difficulties. 
The  distance  is  short — th^re  is  plenty  of  lumber 
upon  the  spot,  and  the  ground  for  most  of  the  way 
not  unfavorable.  -i  'on ■  v- hrMn:/"^. mL^'^j  mi. J)o^ 
.  The  cost  of  railway  In  the  aggregate  may  be 
estimated  at  $2,4()0;  to  which  add —  ■'<-» 

Clearing   the   La  Pompique  and  constructing 
cheap  lock,  ....      2,000 


Contingencies, 


600 


.'-  ^>^ut;u;i.i<i0- 


5,000 

Making  the  whole  cost  of  improving  the  boat 
navigation  from  the  Aroostook  into  the  Sebois,  five 
thousand  dollars.  The  distance  from  the  one  to 
the  other,  following  the  La  Pompique,  is  probably 
from  twelve  to  fifteen  miles. 
'  The  question  next  arises  whether  a  well  con- 
structed turnpike  road  between  the  two  v  aters 
would  not  answer  every  purpose.    A  goodroad. 


*• 


'.DWWllUJIlii'' 


....  Mn,pjfii  .1^,11,1  iijuiuiiipiuni 


■^im 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


26 


a 
ch 
is 
Iver 


properly  made  and  drained  might  be  constracted  for 
^100*);— but  allowing  it  to  cost  $10C3,  the  connec- 
tion may  be  made  between  the  two  rivers  (Sebois 
and  Aroostook)  for  $4,000. 

The  utility  of  doing  this  must  depend  very  much 
upon  the  practicability  and  amount  of  cost  of  over- 
coming the  obstacles  presented  by  the  falls  of  the 
Sebois  below.  Of  this  I  am  not  able  to  speak,  not 
having  seen  them.  At  present  this  course  is  quite 
a  thoroughfare,  notwithstanding  the  severe  labor 
required  to  pass  through  it.  The  travel,  however, 
through  here,  will  be  somewhat  diminished  by  the 
finishing  of  the  Aroostook  road,  but  stili  there  will 
always  be  travel  here,  and  when  the  section  of 
country  in  the  vicinity  becomes  settled,  as  it  one  day 
will,  (and  that  day  may  be  essentially  hastened  by  a 
little  liberality  and  exertion  on  the  part  of  the  State) 
the  travelling  on  this  route  will  increase  in  the  direct 
ratio  of  its  population. 

The  articles  of  transport  for  many  years,  must 
be,  supplies  tor  lumbermen — agricultural  produce — 
merchandise,  and  the  lighter  kinds  of  manufactured 
lumber,  such  as  shingles,  clapboards,  staves,  dec. 
Heavy  lumber,  such  as  logs,  timber,  &c.,  cannot 
easily  be  brought  up  stream.  I  can  see  no  other 
course  for  these  than  such  as  nature  has  pointed  out, 
viz :  down  the  Aroostook  and  St.  John  rivers. 

The  Sebois  lake  is  a  large  deep  body  of  water, 
surrounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  high  swells  of 
land  covered  with  a  mixed  growth,  indicative  of 
good  soil  for  agricultural  purposes.     The  La  Pom- 


1 


t^'l 


re 


26 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


piqne,  at  a  little  distance  from  its  banks,  is  also 
bordered  witli  similar  swells.  Improvement  in  the 
navigation  of  these  two  streams  would  induce  set- 
tlers to  enter  upon  the  lands.  The  limestone  in 
this  region  might  also  be  mentioned  as  affording  a 
source  of  profit,  could  the  means  of  transportation 
down  either  river,  or  both,  be  rendered  more  easy 
than  at  present.  Nature  seems  to  have  pointed  out 
what  might  be  done  here  to  advantage,  leaving  just 
enough  unfinished  to  stimulate  man  to  industry  and 
energy  in  completing  it.  The  experience  of  other 
States  demonstrate  the  utility  of  internal  improve- 
ments of  this  kind,  as  connected  with  the  lasting 
prosperity  of  the  State  itselfl  v^  v*  '^ 


:    ;^V'J•   ,; 


Reconnoisance  of  Little  MachiaSf  and  Portage  to  Eagle 

Lake. 

The  Little  Machias  enters  the  Aroostook  on  the 
north  side,  in  No.  11,  5th  Range,  aN>ut  twelve 
miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix,  another 
branch  which  enters  in  No.  10,  same  Range.  It 
is  a  very  serpentine  stream,  but  the  bends  or  crooks 
are  short.  ^      r 

Its  general  direction  is  northerly.  For  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  its  mouth,  the  water  is  quite  rapid, 
and  af  >rdsa  very  good  mill  site,  which  I  understand 
is  taken  up  and  about  being  improved  for  this  pur- 
pose by  an  enterprising  citizen  of  Augusta.  After 
passing  up  this  distance,  there  is  a  long  reach  of  still 
water  continuing  for  nearly  or  quite  ten  miles.    This 


iilii«MPiil||i9i<IPBmiPpM|li)VIIU|il  japHfppiK 


^wwmiffmnm'm 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


27. 


? 


brings  yon  within  a  mile  and  a  half  or  two  miles 
of  the  Little  Machias  lake.  Here  you  again  meet 
with  rapid  water,  and  another  gcod  mill  site.  The 
growth  on  the  banks  is  principally  what  is  known 
here  by  the  name  of  black  growth,  that  is  to  say, 
pine,  cedar,  spruce,  fir,  dzc.  There  is  little  or  no 
larch  or  hackmatack  found  here.  The  upper  half 
of  this  river  runs  through  low  interval  land,  such  as 
is  best  known  to  our  farmers  by  the  name  of  **  brook 
interval,"  though  it  is  a  little  more  sandy  than  that 
kind  of  interval  is  generally. 

The  margin  of  its  banks  is  crowded  with  a  thick 
growth  of  alders,  such  as  has  been  heretofore 
described.  The  pine  growth  is  more  abundant 
here  than  on  any  of  the  other  branches  which  we 
have  described,  though  not  quite  so  large  as  some 
on  the  main  river,  owing  probably  to  its  having  been 
culled  over,  as,  judging  from  the  camps  and  logging 
roads  which  we  occasionally  met  with,  the  lumber- 
men had  been  there  operating  undoubtedly  on  their 
own  high  responsibility.  No  ledges  or  rocks  appear 
there  in  place,  but  loose  boulders  prevail  .:ear  the 
upper  part,  especially  near  the  lake.  They  are  of 
the  same  character  as  those  before  mentioned, 
such  as  slate,  pudding  stone,  &c.  The  Little 
Machias  lake,  through  which  this  stream  passes, 
for  we  found  that  it  continued  further  north,  is 
about  three  miles  long,  and  perhaps  a  mile  and  a 
half  wide,  and  extends  in  a  direction  west  by  north. 
It  is  surrounded  with  ridges  of  a  moderate  height, 
covered  with  a  hard  wood  growth.     At  the  upper 


r( 


08 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


extremity  of  this  lake,  on  the  northeast  shore,  is  the 
portage  from  this  to  Eagle  lake,  which  is  the  upper- 
most lake,  or  source  of  Fish  river,  and  the  first  of 
an  extensive  and  interesting  chain  of  lakes,  stretching 
to  the  northeast  nearly  parallel  >^ith  the  St.  John 
river,  and  reaching,  as  we  were  informed,  to  within 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  of  the  Grand  Falls.  Of  this 
we  are  not  certain.  It  is  pretty  certain,  however, 
that  they  have  never  been  explored  by  any  Agent  of 
the  State,  and  all  that  is  known  respecting  the  east- 
erly part  of  them  is  derived  from  the  French  at 
Madawaska,  who  have  fished  and  hunted  in  and 
about  them.  ^^•' 

The  portage  above  mentioned  is  two  mites  and 
three  eigliths  long,  and  passes  over  a  beautiful  swell- 
of  hardwood  land.  This  swell  sinks  gradually  to- 
the  west,  and  again  rises»  thus  forming  a  low  valley,, 
which  affords  a  very  eligible  site  for  a  canal,  rail 
road  or  turnpike,  for  facilitating  the  transportation 
between  the  two  waters.         r  "^ 

On  perambulating  the  valley,  t  found  a  brook 
running  into  the  Little  Machias.  This  continues- 
up  to  nearly  the  summit  level  between  the  two* 
waters,,  when  it  suddenly  iornsto  the  left,  or  west- 
erly. This,  should  it  be  needed,  would  make  a  good 
feeder — ^from  this  angle  in  the  brook  commences  a 
natural  meadow,  about  forty  rods  in  length .  A  thick 
growth  of  firs  and  spruces  next  appear,  and  continue 
for  some  rods,  when  another  brook  shews  itself, 
running  into  Eagle  lake.  -- 

On  taking  the  level  through  this  valley,  I  found 


mm^mm^ 


MiWi>  "^TPW^^J^WIUBIP^^WPWWWippi^ 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY,  i 

the  waters  of  the  Eagle  lake  to  be  twenty-three  feet 
higher  than  those  of  the  Little  Machias.*  The  dis- 
tance between  the  two  is  11,880  feet,  or  two  and  a 
quarter  miles- 

Eagle  lake  is  a  large,  deep  body  of  water,  crook^ 
in  shape,  being  made  up  of  two  arms  nearly  at  ri^ht 
angles  to  each  other,  and  the  distance  is  probably, 
from  one  end  to  the  other,  from  twelve  twenty 
miles.  The  width  is  variable,  say  from  one  to  four 
miles,  and  it  affords  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  a  vast 
volume  of  water. 

The  nature  of  the  soil  between  the  two  lakes  » 
mostly  alluvial,  and  the  growth  is  made  up  of 
cedars,  firs  and  spruces.  There  would  probably  be* 
found  nothing  to  make  digging  difficult,  and  every 
advantage  ib  offered  for  the  construction  of  a  canal,, 
with  locks.  The  cost  of  improving  the  Little 
Machias  and  connecting  it  with  Eagle  lake,  may  be 
estimated  at  $17,092  50. 

To  improve  the  Little  Machias,  a  dam  and 
lock  would  be  needled  at  the  mouth»  and  another 
just  below  the  lake.  The  loose  boulders  removed^ 
jfims  and  windfalls  cut  away,,  and  also  the  alder» 
upon  the  banks — the  stream  straightened  by  cutting;: 
across  the  little  peninsulas,  or  *'  ox  bows,"  as  the}^ 
are  here  called,  and  occasionally  a  jettie  or  wing^ 
dam  put  down  ta  deepen  the  channel  in  places  where* 
it  is  broad'  and  more  shallow.  This  I  think  may 
be  done  for  $2000.  r:  ^ 

*  Plan  and  profile  of  the  ground  are  deposited  with  the  Board  of  Inter- 
nal Imgrovamenta. 


■I 


w 


30 


AGRICULTURAL  BURVEY  OP  THE 


i  Excavating  and  removing  1 1  Q,925  cubic  .  '    ' 

yarde  of  earth  for  canal  at  10  cents  per 

yard,  .  .  $11,892  60 

Constructing  three  wooden  locks,  4,000  00 

Wooden  pier  or  breakwater  in  Eagle 

jill^ke,  ...  200  00 

An  inclined  plane  and  railway  would  be  less 

expensive  and  equally  as  good,    perhaps  better. 

Setting  the  improvements  of  the  Little  Machias  as 

before,  at  $2,000,  and  two  miles  and  a  quarter  of 

railway  at  $11,250,  the  total  expense  would  amount 

to  $13,250.     The  distance  from    the  Aroostook 

river  to  Eagle  lake  cannot  be  less  than  fifteen  miles. 

The  inclination  of  the  railway,  except  for  a  few  feet 

at  each  end ,  where  it  dips  into  the  water,  would  be 

so  gradual  and  slight  that  no  fixed  engine  would  be 

needed,  and  horse  power  would  be  amply  sufficient 

to  transport  loaded  boats  of  considerable  burthen 

firom  one  lake  to  the  other. 

Should  it  be  thought,  however,  by  the  Board, 
that  the  expense  of  a  canal  or  rail  road  would  be  too 
great  for  the  amount  of  transportation  which  would 
probably  be  done  upon  the  other,  I  would  respect- 
fully suggest  that  a  good  road  between  the  lakes 
would  come  within  the  scope  of  economy,  and 
at  the  same  time  answer  a  good  purpose  for 
facilitating  intercourse  between  the  two  sections 
of  country.  By  winding  around  the  foot  of  the 
swell  of  land,  over  which  the  portage  now  passes,  a 
level  track  might  be  secured,  and  very  good  roading 
ipnnd. 


*i 


mmmmmv^ 


wmm^^mmmmimi'iimii'i'* 


'^'^'^mmff'^ 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


31 


The  distance  would  probably  be  tlias  increased  to 
three  miles,  and  a  good  turnpike  might  be  easily 
constructed  over  this  ground  for  $3,000,  which, 
with  the  $2,000  for  improving  the  Little  Machias, 
would  amount  to  $5,000  for  fifteen  miles  of  water 
and  land  communication.  Or,  should  greater  econ- 
omy be  desired,  and  less  amount  of  improvement 
accomplished ;  by  omitting  the  cutting  through  the 
"oxbows,"  building  jetties  and  removing  all  the 
boulders,  the  remainder  might  be  done  upon  the 
Machias  for  $1,000,  and  the  sum  total  for  fifleen 
miles  of  very  good  communication  would  then 
amount  to  but  $4^000. 

Should  the  line  of  the  contemplated  Aroostook 
Road,  from  the  Aroostook  river  to  Madawaska,  be 
changed,  as  it  undoubtedly  ought  to  be,  so  as  to  run 
upon  the  swells  and  settling  lands  in  the  vicinity  of 
Fish  river,  the  above  expenditure  would  be  amply 
repaid  by  the  saving  of  labor  and  time  in  getting  in 
supplies  for  that  work  through  this  improved  way. 

Should  either  of  the  above  plans  of  internal 
improvements  be  adopted,  yon  can  then  have,  with 
comparatively  trifling  additional  expense,  a  complete 
thoroughfare  by  water  from  the  settlement  on  the 
Aroostook  river  to  Madawaska  on  the  St.  John, 
a  distance  of  fifty  miles  or  more,  and  that  too 
through  your  own  territory. 

This  additional  expense  will  consist  in  erecting  a 
few  dams  with  locks  in  the  streams  that  connect  the 
several  lakes  on  the  way  to  the  St.  John. 


\  \ 


u 


32 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


In  order  to  ascertain  more  fully  what  would  be 
probably  necessary  for  the  purpose,  and  to  learn 
what  would  be  the  probable  benefit  of  such  improve- 
ment, we  proceeded,  during  the  fall  excursion,  down 
a  part  of  the  lakes  to  Fish  river,  and  thence  into  the 
St.  John  to  Madawaska. 

The  upper  Eagle  lake  has  two  branches,  one 
bearing  northwesterly  and  the  other  easterly.     Pro- 
ceeding down  the  easterly  branch,  you  come  to  a 
broad  outlet,  which,  for  a  mile  or  two,  has  a  gentle 
smooth  current.     This  stream  is  estimated  to  be  nine 
or  ten  miles  long.     The  average  depth  at  the  time 
i^  we  descended  it,  was  about  three  feet — width  vary- 
ing from  thirty  to  eighty  feet.     After  descending 
three  or  four  miles,  we  found  that  the  slate  rock 
Ibrms  a  flooring  to  the  stream,  presenting  the  edges 
of  the  strata  for  some  distance,  but  there  are  no 
falls  or  rips  of  any  consequence.     Occasionally  there 
is  a  little  quick  water,  but  nothing  to  retard  the 
progress  of  the  boats  either  way.     A  couple  of  dams 
at  suitable  distances  from  each  other,  with  locks, 
ifvould  make  the  stream  deeper  and  slacken  the 
^water  the  wliole  length.      As  yon   approach  the 
:«ocond  lake,  ^he  Hstceam  becomes  more  serpentine, 
^nd  patches  of  very  good  interval  shew  themselves 
«on  the  banks.      -r  ^ 

The  second  lake  is  not  far  from  four  miles  in 
length,  and  from  two  to  three  in  breadth.  At  the 
4ipper  part  it  is  bounded  on  each  side  by  high  swells 
«of  land,  but  towards  the  foot  the  land  is  more  low. 


-wifnimifrfr^ '  ^1 '«"';  '*mf«i«pgpnpp<i>Y^^||iwiPii;iiPP! 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


33 


The  stream  connecting  this  lake  with  the  next, 
or  third  lake,  is  estimated  to  be  three  miles  long. 
The  water  is  not  so  deep  as  the  last  mentioned 
stream,  bat  it  is  broad,  and  the  current  not  very 
quick.  The  most  rapid  part  is  near  the  outlet  of 
the  second  lake,  where  is  a  suitable  situation  for  a 
dam.  The  third  lake  is  a  large  body  of  water,  and 
is  made  up  of  two  branches — one  stretching  in  a 
curving  direction  to  the  east,  and  the  other  a  little 
west  of  north.  It  is  not  always  observed  when  the 
lake  is  entered,  and  strangers  are  apt  to  continue 
down  the  easterly  branch  on  their  way  to  the  St. 
John,  when  they  should  take  the  other,  or  the  left 
hand  branch  as  the  lake  is  entered. 

The  easterly  branch  cannot  be  less  than  six  miles 
in  length,  and  receives,  near  the  foot  of  it,  a  large 
inlet  from  other  lakes  further  east,  which  we  did  not 
explore.  '^?^«:7  / « 

;  As  I  have  just  observed,  the  left  hand  branch 
leads  into  Fish  river,  and  is  the  direct  way  to  the 
St.  John  river  and  the  Madawaska  settlement. 
This  branch  of  the  lake  is  three  miles  long.  The 
waters  are  deep  and  abound  in  fish  of  various 
descriptions.  The  French  people  from  Mada- 
waska resort  in  gr^at  numbers  to  this  and  the  other 
lakes,  especially  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  supplying  themselves  with  the  fish  found 
here.  The  large  lake  trout,  or  togues,  as  they  are 
sometimes  called,  abound  here — also  the  kusk,  a  fish 
somewhat  similar  in  appearance  to  the  salt  water 
kusk.  The  kind  most  sought  after,  however,  is 
5 


V  1 


**<*>. 


34 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OF  THE 


!;'' . 


called  **  white  fish."  I  did  not  have  an  opportu- 
nity of  examining  any  of  them,  and  cannot  say  to 
what  species  they  belong.  We  were  informed  by 
a  Frenchman  whom  we  met  upon  the  lake,  fishing 
lor  togues,  that  there  was  a  party  then  in  the  lake 
next  east  of  us,  taking  the  "white  fish^' — that 
they  caught  them  at  night  by  torch  light  with  dip 
nets,  and  that  it  was  the  work  of  but  a  short  time 
to  load  a  horse — that  they  were  about  half. the  size 
of  the  common  alewife  or  herring,  and  of  very  good 
flavor.  '  ■<'  '"■■■  -■«■  f  .i-->. ;■• 

Fish  River  which  connects  this  lake  with  the 
St.  John,  and  indeed  is  the  outlet  of  the  whole 
chain  of  lakes,  is  at  least  fifteen  miles  in  length.  It 
is  of  very  uniform  depth,  being  on  an  average,  at 
the  time  we  were  there,  about  four  feet  deep,  but 
it  is  evident,  from  the  marks  on  trees  growing  on 
its  banks,  that  at  times  it  is  swollen  to  no  mean 
dimensions,  and  that  at  such  periods  a  large  volume 
of  water  flows  down  its  channel. 

As  you  enter  it  from  the  lake,  you  find  a  few 
boulders  in  its  bed,  which  cause  a  slight  rapid ;  but 
which  would  cease  on  their  removal.  There  are 
but  two  very  serious  obstacles  to  encounter  between 
this  and  the  St.  John  river.  One  of  them  is  the 
"Grand  Falls,"  about  three  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  the  falls  at  Maddock's  and  Savage's  mills,  a 
mile  below  these.  At  the  Grand  Falls,  the  water 
plunges  over  the  rocks  almost  perpendicularly, 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet.  The  best  mode  of  over- 
coming this  obstruction  would  be  to  construct  an 


r^-: 


mmimm 


•vafi 


mmm 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


35 


inclined  plane  and  railway  about  fifty  rods  long, 
as  the  river  is  so  narrow  and  the  rocks  (which  are 
slate)  form  a  ragged  shore  through  which  it  would 
be  too  expensive  to  dig  a  canal.  At  the  nriilldam,  a 
lock  might  be  constructed  without  much  trouble, 
or  an  inclined  plane  and  railway  made  around  the 
dam  of  about  twenty  rods  in  length. 

As  my  orders  did  not  authorize  me  to  go  into  a 
minute  examination  of  any  other  section  of  this 
route,  than  between  the  Little  Much  las  and  the 
Upper  Eagle  Lake,  I  did  not  take  any  admeasure- 
ments, nor  make  so  critical  a  survey  as  to  enable 
me  to  give  an  estimate  of  the  probable  cost  of  im- 
proving the  navigation  of  the  streams  which  con- 
nect the  lakes  with  each  and  with  the  St.  John. 
However,  the  exploration  which  I  did  make,  con- 
vinces me  that  with  comparatively  little  expense, 
these  natural  channels  may  be  easily  improved,  and 
by  constructing  one  kind  or  the  other  of  the  works 
which  have  been  mentioned,  a  complete  communi- 
cation, principally  by  water,  of  not  less  than  fifly 
miles  in  extent,  may  be  opened  between  the  Aroos- 
took and  the  St.  John  rivers — thus  uniting  the  set- 
tlements on  each  of  the  rivers,  and  in  fact,  estab- 
lishing a  direct  and  safe  thoroughfare  to  the  frontier 
parts  of  our  State. 

Indeed  it  is  not  a  little  surprising  that  something 
of  the  kind,  cither  in  the  form  of  a  canal  or  a  good 
road,  has  not  yet  been  done.  On  the  St.  John  is 
a  settlement  of  more  than  four  thousand  inhabitants, 
belonging  most  rightfully  to  the  State  of  Maine; 


i 


36 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


and  on  the  Aroostook  another,  comprising  in  all 
not  less  than  five  handrcd — citizens  of  the  same 
Commonwealth  as  ourselves,  bound  to  support  our 
government,  amenable  to  our  laws  and  entitled  to 
our  protection — and  yet,  hitherto  there  has  been  no 
established  means  of  ingress  to,  or  egress  from  them, 
unless  you  pass  through  the  territory  belonging  to 
Great  Britain. 

Surely  it  is  no  wonder  that  our  boundary  is  not 
settled,  when  we  have  not  even  made  so  much  as 
a  footpath  in  which  to  go  and  see  where  it  is;  and 
have  no  means  of  visiting  that  portion  of  our  fellow 
citizens  who  live  upon  our  borders,  except  by 
groping  our  way  through  the  trackless  forest  or 
crossing  the  dominions  of  a  foreign  power.  ' 

The  advantages  of  a  direct  communication  to 
Madawaska,  setting  aside  the  duty  of  every  State 
to  establish  and  keep  up  a  complete  line  of  commu- 
nication to  every  part  of  its  territory,  would  be  the 
opening  of  a  new  field  for  the  enterprise  of  our 
citizens,  and  bringing  much  of  the  trade  of  the  fertile 
valley  of  the  St.  John  to  our  own  doors.  But  this 
is  not  all.  At  a  time  when  a  portion  of  our  terri- 
tory is  actually  undex  the  jurisdiction  of  Great 
Britain,  it  is  a  more  serious  and  important  inquiry, 
how — should  we  be  driven  to  the  extremity  of  a 
resort  to  arms — how  can  we  enter  to  defend  or 
regain  ?  How  could  soldiers  or  munitions  of  tvar 
be  transported  to  this  section  of  our  frontiers — 
where  it  is  sufficiently  difficult  for  the  hunter,  inured 
as  he  is  to  the  toils  and  the  labors  of  a  life  in  the 


•mwmmimF 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


37 


wilderness,  Xo  travel  with  his  pack  and  birchen 
canoe  across  the  route  in  question  ? 

Surely  the  wholesome  admonition  of  experience 
— **in  time  of  peace  prepare  for  war  " — has  been 
strangely  disregarded  by  us,  as  it  respects  this  por- 
tion of  our  territory,  more  especially  when  we  con- 
sider that  the  very  preparation  required  would  be 
thrice  more  useful  in  time  of  peace,  and  largely 
contribute  to  the  abiding  prosperity  of  this  portion 
of  our  domain.(a) 


:  57 


■*'. 


p- 


•     -41 


■'^r 


■t.*^'j- 


'■!*■ 


::  *r^ 


■.!*•-  t»K^V»>*, 


^^•^"""■"^■iiiip 


38 


AGRICULTURAL  SLRVEr  OP  THE 


.1  »,• 


■;iv' 


■'i^:^ 


PART    II. 


■,*fr'>>''i'' 


lii  I 


Situation  ind  Extent  of  the  Valley  of  the  AroMook, 

Climate — Soil — KMural   growth — Agricultural  pro- 

■   ducts — Ron  'j    recommended— Geology.     General   re- 

-:      marks.      ,,      .,.       -      ^   .       ....  :,,    ,    ,;,.  ..,^,j.-s;;.;:.:,,:,  . 

The  Aroostook,  or  Restook  River,  as  some  call 
it,  rises  in  several  lakes  which  are  located  very  near 
thv";  Eastern  waters  of  the  Penobscot.  Lakes  Mil- 
linoket  and  Millinoketsis  are  the  principal  purees 
from  which  it  flows.  Its  general  course  is  easterly, 
and  it  forms  one  of  the  most  important  branches  of 
the  St.  John.  It  is  very  serpentine  in  its  course, 
and  hence,  with  its  tributaries  drains  a  greater 
extent  of  territory  than  it  otherwise  would,  amount- 
ing to  not  less  than  fifty  townships,  or  1,152,000 
acres,  comprising  in  its  valley  some  of  the  very  best 
soil  in  the  State  of  Maine. 

The  waters  of  this  river  are  very  little  interrupted 
with  falls  or  **  rips"  until  within  about  three  miles 
from  its  mouth,  when  it  becomes  obstructed  with 
rocks  which  cause  a  precipitous  fall  estimated  by 
some  at  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  height;  though 
from  slight  observation,  it  appears  much  higher 
than  that.  The  rocks  cross  the  river  here  at  nearly 
right  angles,  and  cause  a  series  of  cascades  which 
continue  iieariy  a  mile  and  aiford  a  very  romantic 
and pictnresque  scene.  ,      ,.  , 


!,»)Wj»wiiMi  ^nw  flw,^Bwnmnpiprvpp»f,j»iiiiiiiJni»i«>nmp^pnw^ 


•iiiiWWWIH 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


39 


The  waters  of  the  Aroostook,  as  has  been  before 
observed,  move  moderately  and  smoothly,  except 
when  they  are  swollen  by  freshets  in  the  spring. 
They  are  howevc  r,  boat^ble  for  common  batteaux 
all  seasons  of  the*  year,  except  when  obstructed  by 
ice.  Large  boats,  drawn  by  horses  walking  on  the 
shore,  in  the  same  manner  as  canal  boats  are 
drawn,  arc  also  used  when  the  water  is  at  a  suitable 
pitch,  but  in  the  drought  of  summer  it  is  somewhat 
difficult  to  move  up  and  down  with  boats  of  any 
considerable  size. 

Tributaries.  The  principal  tributaries  or 
branches  of  the  Aroostook  are  as  follows :  begin- 
ning at  its  mouth  and  following  upon  the  south  side, 
Presquile,  St.  Croix,  Umquolqus  and  La  Pom- 
pique.  On  the  north  side — Limestone.  Stream, 
Little  Madawaska,  Salmon  Stream,  Beaver  Brook, 
Little  Machias,  Great  Machias,  Mooseluck.  Most 
cf  tiiese  streams,  like  the  main  Aroostook,  are  not 
very  rapid.  They  are  occasionally  crossed  by  the 
strata  of  slate  or  greywacke  which  sometimes  make 
obstruction  ;  and  a  pitch  or  descent  of  water  suffi- 
cient to  form  a  mill  privilege  is  the  result. 

There  is  one  peculiarity  to  be  found  in  nearly  all 
the  places  suitable  for  mill  sites.  It  is  quite  seldom 
that  both  branches  of  the  stream  are  of  the  same 
character.  One  side,  for  instance,  will  be  formed 
by  the  ledge  while  the  other  side  falls  oflf,  being 
made  up  of  alluvial  (interval)  land,  which  render  it 
very  difficult  to  make  a  dam  that  shall  be  perma- 
nently tight  oa  that  side.      ^:  , 


S( 


I    f 


¥• 


w 


40 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


This  characteristic  is  exhibited  at  Mr.  Fairbanks, 
on  the  Presqaile,  and  in  several  other  situations.  At 
Mr.  Pollards,  on  the  St.  Croix,  this  is  not  the 
case.  Both  sides  of  the  river  here  present  a  strong 
ledge.  We  did  not  ascend  the  Presquile  above  Mr. 
Fairbanks.        "'■ '  *"'•-''  -"'  ■•  ■'''-^•-  -•' -'.    *  <.■..-- ■■^■'-^-f- 

St.  Croix.  The  branch  next  in  coarse  and 
importance  is  the  St.  Croix.  This  enters  the 
Aroostook  near  the  centre  of  No.  10,  5th  Range, 
near  the  point  where  the  Aroostook  road  strikes 
the  main  river.  It  arises  principally  from  a  lake  in 
No.  8,  although  some  of  its  smaller  branches  extend 
into  the  No.  7's  of  the  4th  and  5th  Ranges.  I 
passes  through  a  good  timber  tract  of  land,  ana 
there  is  also  some  very  gooa  land  for  agricultural 
purposes  upon  its  banks.  Lumbering  will  probably 
be  the  order  of  the  day  upon  it  for  many  years.  ^ 
There  are  two  good  mill  sites  upon  it.  One  in  the 
corner  of  No.  9,  which  has  been  taken  up  by  Mr 
Pollard  who  has  been  engaged  in  erecting  a  very 
excellent  saw  and  grist  mill  there.  ^  .^  -     :.. 

The  other  is  in  No.  8,  a  few  miles  higher  up  the 
stream.  The  waters  of  this  river  abound  in  fish. 
And  it  is  thought  that  some  of  its  branches  might 
be  connected  with  those  of  the  Mattawamkeag  so 
as  to  form  a  communication  by  water  to  the  Pe- 
nobscot. 

Umquolqus.    The  next  most  important  strean» 
above  this  is  the  Umquolqus  which  rises  in  No.  7, 
6th  range,  from  two  small  lakes.    This  is  not  so    : 
large  a  stream  as  the  St.  Croix.    It  takes  its  name. 


; 


rU' 


^n 


! 


mmmw 


r 


^mm 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY.    > 


4i 


s.  At 
)t  the 
strong 
re  Mr. 


r»#>. 


se  and 
Ts  the 
iange, 
strikes 
lake  in 
extend 

A,  ana 
mltural 
robably 

years.  * 
ein  the 

by  Mr 
;  a  very 

r  up  the 
in  fish. 
!S  might 
keag  60 
the  Pe- 

t  streaiift 
I  No.  7, 
is  not  so 
s  name, 


as  the  Indians  'say,  from  a  species  of  duck  which 
remains  there  daring  the  winter.  We  did  not  see 
the  duck  while  we  were  there,  and  cannot  there- 
fore determine  what  particular  species  is  mea^t. 
For  the  first  eight  or  ten  miles  from  its  mouth,  it  is 
a  rapid  and  wild  stream  when  there  is  any  thing  of 
a  freshet.  Above  this  it  is  somewhat  sluggish. 
The  land  through  which  it  flows  is  varied  in  its 
character.  On  the  west  side,  as  you  go  up,  is  a 
tract  of  land  covered  with  mixed  growth,  rising 
gradually  from  the  banks  and  forming  a  beautiful 
swell,  possessing  undoubtedly  a  good  soil  for  farms. 
Higher  up  the  stream  the  land  is  lower  and  covered 
with  a  fine  growth  of  larch  (hackmatack,)  spruce 
and  cedars.  On  this  stream  are  one  or  two  good 
mill  sites,  but  the  lumber  f^^r  several  miles  from  its 
mouth  has  been  cut  off  with  or  without  leave  and 
carried  away.  ..,  ,  ^j4Jv 

Near  the  source  of  one  of  its  branches  in  town- 
ship No.  7,  6th  range,  is  a  large  formation  of  lime- 
stone. 

La  Pompique.  Next  above  this  last  named 
f^cr^am,  is  the  La  Pompique.  The  source  of  this 
Vfi  nch,  as  we  have  remarked  in  another  part  of 
li>ir«  report,  is  only  one  hundred  and  fify-seven  rods 
from  the  Sebois  Lake,  out  of  which  the  Sebois 
branch  of  the  Penobscot  flows.  It  is  rather  a 
snnall  and  crooked  stream,  much  obstructed  by  loose 
rocks  or  boulders,  windfalls  and  leaning  alders.  It 
is  often  used,  in  the  spring  and  fall,  by  those  who 
come  up  ur  down  the  Sebois,  in  passing  to  and  from 

6 


4^ 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OF  THE 


■■^■ 


i 


the  Aroostook.  Indeed  it  was  formerly  the  prin- 
cipal avenue  to  t!ie  Aroostook  from  the  Penobscot 
country.  *     ^  -'    ^'^-''   ■ 

In  the  drought  of  summer,  the  water  is  shallow. 
The  land  through  which  it  flows  is  rather  low  and 
swampy,  though  there  are  swells  of  good  land  at  a 
little  distance.  It  is  well  stocked  with  trout;  and 
water  fowl  breed  in  considerable  numbers  near  its 
source.  Its  name,  I  am  informed  by  the  Indians, 
signifies  in  their  language,  a  rope. 

LiTTL  ^ACHiAS.  The  Little  Machias  is 
the  only  bra  .  of  the  Aroostook  on  the  north  side, 
which  we  were  able  to  explore,  and  for  a  descrip- 
tion of  this,  must  refer  to  the  first  part  of  our  report. 

The  Aroostook  country  may  be  considered  as 
lying  between  46  and  47  degrees  of  north  latitude. 

Soil.  The  soil  of  this  region  is  various.  Much 
of  it  is  alluvial.  By  alluvial,  however,  is  not  always 
meant  that  species  of  soil  that  is  known  by  the 
name  of  interval;  btit  by  alluvial  I  here  mean 
that  kind  of  soil  which  has  been  deposited  by  water 
in  a  quiet  state,  and  although  all  interval  or  bot- 
tom lands  are  alluvial,  being  deposited  by  water  in 
this  state  or  condition,  vet  all  alluvlals  are  not 
strictly  speaking  intervals.  Some  disappoint- 
ment was  experienced  last  summer,  by  many  who 
visited  the  Aroostook  with  the  idea  that  the  alluvial 
land,  which  Dr.  Jackson  spoke  of  in  his  report  was 
the  same  as  that  known  in  other  parts  of  the  State, 
particularly  on  the  Kennebec,  Sandy,  Androscoggin 
and    Saco  Rivers,  as  altogether  interval   lands. 


pif«!in<iu"ii'  w«  m  f!  i«^M"n"ni«mMi«««MniPiiHiipppimpiiiiiPir; 


■immm 


mmmmm. 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


43 


Although  there  is  a  good  deal  of  this  species  of  land 
there,  yet  the  alluvion  is  much  of  it  '*  upland V 
8uch  appears  to  be  the  formation  of  the  soil  in  many 
of  the  tovVnships  which  I  examined,  particularly 
letter  F,  upon  which  Mr.  Dennis  Fairbanks  resides. 
This  is  one  of  the  best  townships  in  the  whole  val- 
ley of  the  Aroostook,  and  has  been  proved  to  be  first 
rate  for  crops,  especially  for  wheat.  An  analysis  of 
the  soil  of  Mr.  Fairbanks's  farm,  was  made  by 
Dr.  Jackson,  and  published  in  his  report  of  the 
Geology  of  the  Public  Lands.  Some  soil  taken  by 
me  in  the  forest,  a  mile  or  two  from  Mr.  Fairbanks'^ 
house,  yielded  on  analysis  similar  results,  excepting 
it  afforded  a  trifle  more  (5.  parts  and  fo  in  the  hun- 
dred) of  vegetable  extract  (geine),  a  result  which 
might  naturally  be  expected.  Some  taken  near  the 
same  place,  but  from  a  locality  in  which  cedars 
(Thuya  occidentalis)  flourished,  contained  still  more 
l^eina  than  the  other.  .M 

There  are  many  tracts  or  belts  of  interval  scat- 
tered up  and  down  the  river  which  are  very  good . 
The  arable  portion  of  them  is  not  so  wide  as  has  been 
thought,  for,  as  a  general  thing,  they  sink  rather  too 
much  as  they  recede  from  the  river.  On  the  Ken- 
nebec, Sandy,  Androscoggin  and  Saco  Rivers,  the 
intervals  generally  iise  as  you  proceed  back  from 
the  banks  of  the  river  into  table  or  high  laiic^,  but 
here  the  high  lands  are  most  often  found  on  the  oppo- 
site sides  of  the  river.  It  is  true  that  this  pecu- 
liarity does  not  always  show  itself  where  intervals 


t^i 


1  \  I 


.'I, 


u 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


occur,  but  in  a  majority  of  cases  this  will  be  found 
to  be  the  fact. 

These  intervals  are  at  first  fertile,  and  afford 
good  crops,  but  it  will  probably  be  found  that  they 
are  much  more  liable  to  be  affected  by  early  frosts, 
and  in  process  of  time,  when  it  shall  become  ne- 
cessary io  manure,  they  will  prove  less  retentive 
of  such  dressing.*  The  best  soils  for  farms  are 
undoubtedly  on  the  gentle  swells  of  land  covered 
with  a  mixed  growth  of  hard  and  soft  wood ;  and 
although  the  intervals  and  the  lower  lands  will  be 
valuable  for  tillage  and  mowing,  yet  the  swells  are 
much  better  adapted  for  pasturage  and  more  likely 
to  he  supplied  with  wholesome  water.       ,>»**«.«.;£ 

The  tract  of  land  lying  between  Houlton  and 
letter  F  is  mostly  a  moderate  swell  of  a  quality 
similar  to  letter  F,  and  indeed  much  of  the  whole 
country  between  the  Aroostook  River  and  the 
Houlton  Road  is  of  this  character.  It  has  been 
asserted  that  there  are  an  unusual  quantity  of  bogs  or 
lowlands  in  this  country.  From  a  careful  inspection 
of  the  lands  bordering  on  the  whole  length  of  the 
river  and  several  of  its  tributaries,  I  do  not  think 
that  this  is  the  case.  It  is  true,  that  in  a  territory 
where  there  are  no  very  high  mountains  which  give 
rise  to  streams,  the  waters  must  collect  in  what  are 
called  frog's,  and  many  of  the  streams  take  their  rise 
in  such  places,  others  start  from  lakes.  The  amount 
of  these  low  lands  compared  with  the  number  of 

*The  interval!  here  spoken  of  arc  seldom  if  ever  overflowed  hj  the  river. 


Fimpi 


npu^niiinmpw 


mmmmmfw^ 


''''«p'"M"iiipnppi«"NPiiPPippi*iiiPil 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


u 


acres  of  good  soil,  capable  of  making  first  rate  arable 
or  grazing  farms,  is  not  out  of  proportion :  nor  do 
I  think  there  are  more  of  them  than  the  inhabitants 
will,  at  some  future  day,  wish  there  were.  It 
may  seem  exceedingly  visionary  to  some,  and  appear 
like  looking  forward  to  a  very  far  distant  day,  when 
the  inhabitants  of  this  section  of  our  State  shall  con- 
sider these  lowlands  as  among  their  most  valuable 
property ;  and  yet,  by  turning  our  eyes  to  the  oldet 
countries,  we  find  such  to  be  the  'fact  there,  and  learn 
that  similar  lands  are  sought  after  with  avidity, 
drained  and  cultivated  with  great  success  and  profit. 

Growth.  The  forest  trees  of  this  region  are 
similar  in  kind  to  those  in  other  northerly  parts  of 
the  State.  Among  them  are  found  the  following, 
viz.  Norw^ay  pines  {Pinus  Rubra),  Pumpkin,  or  a» 
it  is  most  often  called,  White  Pine  (Pinus  Strobus), 
Hemlock  (Abies  Canadensis) y  Spruce  (Abie9 
J^Tigra),  Silver  Fir  (Mies  Balsamifera),  White 
Maple,  White  Birch  or  Paper  Birch,  Yellow  Birch, 
Beech,  White  and  Black  Ash,  Elm,  Red  Oak, 
Iron  or  Lever  Wood,  Wild  Cherry,  Cedar  (White 
Cedar  Thuya  Occidentalis),  common  Poplar, 
Canada  Poplar  or  Balm  of  Gilead,  Basswood,  &c. 

In  the  bogs  and  lowlands  is  found  the  Larch,  or 
as  it  most  commonly  called  Hackmatack,  and  there 
are  some  large  and  extensive  tracks  of  this  valuable 
tree,  now  so  much  used  in  shipbuilding.  They 
grow  large  and  thrifty.  The  common  Cedar  of  this 
country,  which  is  the  White  Cedar — Arbor  Vit»  or 
Thuya  Occidentalis  of  Botanists — is  also  abundant 


■'I 


i 

I 


II'  i;n 


ill  !■ 


Pl^' 


46 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OF  tHfi 


in  such  places^  but  what  is  a  little  uncommon,  by 
far  the  best  specimens  of  this  tree  are  found  on  the 
uplands,  and  in  some  of  the  best  soils.     When  in 
such  situations,  they  ^rovv  up  straight  and   thrifty^ 
whereas,  when   found  on  the  low  lands  they  are 
much  more  apt  to  be  crooked  or  to  form  a  curving 
trunk.    This  fact  puts  Michaux's  assertion,  that  this 
tree  never  grows  on  high  land,  entirely  at  faults 
He  says  "It  is  never  seen  on  the  uplands^  among  the 
Beeclies  and  Birches,  6lc.  but  is  found  on  the  rocky 
edges  of  the  innumerable  rivulets  and  small  lakes 
which  are  scattered  over  these  countries,  and  occu- 
pies in  great  part,  or  exclui^ively,  swamps  from  50 
to  100  acres  in  extent  some  of  which  are  actually 
accessible  only  in  winter,  when  they  are  frozen  and 
covered  with  several  feet  of  snow.     It  abounds 
exactly  in  proportion  to  the  humidity,  and   in  the 
driest  marshes  it  is  mingled  with  the  Black  Spruce, 
'the  Hemlock  Spruce,  the  Yellow  Birch,  the  Black 
Ash  and  a  few  stocks  of  the  White  Pine." 

From  the  above  account  one  would  suppose  that 
it  was  impossible  to  find  this  tree  except  in  some 
inaccessible  bog;  and  indeed,  the  general  belief  is, 
that  whenever  one  of  them  is  seen  you  may  find  a 
cold  stone  and  a  cold  spring  of  w^ater  at  its  root. 
Yet  some  of  the  best  and  most  productive  land,  the 
soil  of  which  on  analysis  affords  as  many  valuable 
materials  as  any  in  the  State,  and  when  cultivated 
actually  produces  as  good  crops  as  any  other,  sup- 
ported before  being  cleared,  a  dense  growth  of  these 
trees.     The  Fir  tree  also,  as  well  as  the  Spruce, 


>.W"Vi'»"<«nrfWVmi(  I.IIIJ  llin^pmmimiHimil 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


47 


has  taken  the  liberty  to  grow  as  well  or  better 
here  on  the  intervals  and  uplands,  than  they  do  in 
the  swamps.  Many  of  the  intervals,  which,  when 
cleared,  afford  a  warm  dry  soil,  were  covered  with 
the  Silver  Fir,  Spruce,  Ace. 
•r  The  Hemlock  is  not  quite  so  plenty  here  as  in 
some  other  parts  of  the  State.  ^ 

White  Pines  are  found  mingled  with  the.  hard- 
wood growth,  and  the  most  valuable  and  splendid 
specimens  of  this  tree  occur  interspersed  with  such 
trees  on  the  swells  and  uplands. 

The  Rock  Maple  is  very  abundant  and  affords 
large  quantities  of  sugar  to  those  who  are  disposed 
to  enter  into  the  business. 

The  Yellow  Birch  acquires  enormous  size  here 
and  affords  some  fine  timber,  a  considerable  quantity 
of  which  is  cut  on  the  St.  John  and  sold. 

The  Beech  is  abundant  in  some  places,  bnt 
whenever  you  find  it  prevails  yon  will  also  find  a 
hard  and  stony  soil. 

In  the  lowlands.  Elms  and  Black  Ash  abound; 
White  Ash  is  not  very  abundant,  though  in  some 
sections  it  is  found  in  considerable  numbers.  A  few 
trees  of  Red  Oak  were  found  on  Eagle  Lake,  but 
Oak  of  any  kind  is  not  often  found  in  this  section. 
The  Pines  and  Spruces  seem  to  be  the  oinly  kind 
of  timber  now  in  demafid  on  the  Aroostook.  The 
Pine  timber  found  here,  is  undoubtedly  superior  to 
any  in  Maine.  But  very  little  is  yet  manufactured 
in  mills,  it  being  nearly  all  hewn  or  made  into  ton 
timber  in  the  forest,  and  floated  down  to  Fredericton 


48 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


or  the  city  of  St.  John  and  thence  shipped  to  Eng- 
land. The  Larch  for  knees  and  timber  for  ship- 
building, and  (he  Cedar  for  fences,  railways  and  other 
purposes;  Birds-eye  Maple,  Birch,  ^c.  for  cabinet 
\\'ork  and  many  of  the  purposes  in  the  arts  will,  at 
no  very  distant  day,  come  into  demand,  and  when- 
ever the  call  is  made  an  almost  inexhaustible  supply 
may  here  be  found.  There  seems  only  one  draw 
back  to  their  value.  There  is  no  other  way  by 
which  these  productions  of  the  forest  can  be  sent  to 
market  except  dovv^n  the  Aroostook  and  St.  John 
rivers — thus  subjecting  us  to  the  necessity  of  going 
through  or  into  a  country  belonging  to  a  foreign  power 
before  they  can  be  disposed  of. 

Climate.  Although  this  section  of  country  is 
situate  in  a  pretty  high  latitude  (between  ^G*^  and 
47"  N.)  The  climate  is  not  so  severe  as  in  some 
situations  on  the  same  parallels,  owing  no  doubt  to 
its  interior  location  and  to  the  fact  that  it  is  not 
mountainous.  The  surface  is  undulating  or  lying  ia 
swells,  and  although  some  of  these  swells  rise  into 
hills,  yet  they  are  of  a  good  soil  and  well  wooded 
to  their  very  summits. 

Snow  falls  early  and  continues  upon  the  ground 
somewhat  late  in  the  spring,  which  prevents  the 
ground  from  freezing  very  deep  in  the  fall  or  winter, 
and  from  "heaving,"  as  it  is  termed,  in  the  spring, 
by  frosts.  •  '^■-,>.?  ..  •"■•..•;  .x .-,,»-  *vr*M  >■'-.•■,.'  ■  •  v<y 
<  As  a  general  thing,  the  frost  penetrates  but  three 
or  four  inches  and  can  be  broken  through  ^ith  very 
little  force  any  time  during  the  winter.     >   -  • 


■wnjuiMii'iwi  iim'mii''''fmmmvw^^mmwmimmmmtf^llH^ 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


49 


The  early  fall  of  the  snow  may  be  attributed  to 
the  existence  of  so  large  a  body  of  wood,  covering 
the  earth  for  such  an  extent  unbroken.  It  cannot 
but  be  the  case  that  where  there  is  such  a  dense 
covering  to  the  soil  as  so  nnuch  foliage  affords,  and 
where  there  is  so  much  evaporation  constantly 
going  on,  a  general  moisture  and  coolness  of  the 
atmosphere  mast  be  the  consequence,  and  also  a 
much  lower  state  of  temperature  than  if  none  of 
these  causes  existed. 

Experiments  upon  the  evaporation,  or  rather 
transpiration  of  moisture  from  the  leaves  of  trees, 
show  that  a  single  tree  will  throw  off  an  immense 
quantity  of  moisture  in  the  course  of  a  season, 

Williams,  in  his  history  of  Vermont,  has  some 
interesting  remarks  upon  this  subject.  According 
to  his  experiments  the  evaporation  from  a  common 
sized  maple,  only  eight  inches  and  a  half  through, 
amounted  to  three  hundred  and  thirty-nine  thousand 
and  seventy-two  grains  in  twelve  hours.  A  pint  of 
water  weighs  one  pound  or  seven  thousand  grains, 
and  hence  every  acre  of  land  which  contained  six 
hundred  and  forty  such  trees  upon  it,  throws  off  three 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  seventy-five  gallons  of 
moisture  in  twelve  hours.  (See  Williams'  History 
of  Vermont,  Vol.  1,  page  90.) 

Taking  this  for  granted,  one  may  easily  conjecture 
what  must  be  the  natural  consequence  when  so 
large  a  tract  of  country  is  covered  so  completely 
with  apparatus  for  evaporation.  Nor  ought  any 
one  to  be  surprised  to  find  the  thermometer  ranging 
■.;  %  .  . 


'  1 

:  r 


ill 


■';  i 


V  » 


50 


AGRICULTURAL  RURVKY  OF  THE 


at  a  lower  temperature  tlian  it  would  in  the  same 
country,  if  divested  of  wood  and  subjected  to  the 
common  operations  of  cultivation. 

There  is  undoubtedly  another  position  in  which 
we  ought  to  look  at  this  fact  as  connected  with  cli- 
mate and  productions. 

The  electrical  state  of  the  atmosphere  must  be 
very  dilTerent  in  such  a  dense  forest,  from  what  it  is 
in  an  open  country,  and  how  far  this  may  influence 
the  productions  of  the  soil,  in  hastening  or  retarding 
their  growth  and  maturity,  or  vary  the  results  of 
agricultural  operations,  cannot,  in  the  jirescnt  state 
of  the  science,  be  determined.  That  electricity  is 
a  most  powerful  agent  in  the  changes  which  climates 
undergo,  as  well  as  in  the  more  daily  variation^  ^f 
the  weather,  no  one  can  doubt,  though  he  may 
be  able  to  solve  the  mystery  of  its  operations,  or  to 
fully  comprehend  all  its  connections  with  the  daily 
occurrences  in  meteorology  which  are  manifest  to 
the  most  careless  observers. 

That  electricity  also,  has  a  powerful  influence 
upon  soils,  is  also  beyond  a  doubt;  but  by  what  laws, 
special  or  general,  it  acts,  or  how  the  various  eflects 
which  may  be  attributed  to  it,  are  brought  about,  is 
yet  almost  wholly  unknown  to  even  the  most  scien- 
tiiic. 

The  Aroostook  River  is  closed  by  ice  generally 
about  the  middle  of  November,  and  opens  about 
the  20th  of  April.  This  agrees  very  well  with  the 
time  in  which  the  Kennebec  River  closes  in  the 
fall  and  opens  in  the  spring. 


fH 


mmm 


AROOSTOOK  TERlllTORY. 


51 


The  following  tables  will  show  the  comparntive 
temperature  of  the  country  on  the  Aroostook,  with 
other  places  where  such  records  are  kept. 

It  will  be  well  to  observe  that  thcrmometeni  in 
towns,  are  generally  kept  suspended  on  the  side  of 
a  building,  which  shelters  thtm  mnteriully,  while 
ours  was  constantly  moving  from  place  to  place — 
sometimes  oa  the  banks  of  the  river — sometinics  in 
a  dense  cedar  swamp,  and  sometimes  on  elevated 
but  shaded  ground. 


Dhy. 

Hun  rl»e 

Sept  24 

52« 

25 
26 

30 
31 

27 

38 

28 

53 

29 

42 

30 

40 

7)286 

40  C7 

Oct  1 
2 

40 
32 

3 

55 

4 
5 
6 

>       7 

8 

.   9 

10 

30 
47 
34 
40 
27 
26 
34 
40 

'm   12 

42 

13 

40 

Nnon. 


48«= 

57 
55 

57 

G5 
65 
69 


Sun  aet. 


40^^ 

47 
56 

60 

57 

58 
63 


7)416    7)387 


59  3-7 


68 

75 

44 

48 
54 
58 
44 
46 
46 
56 


6597 


54 
6:3 

37 

45 
52 

56 
42 
38 
36 
48 
56 


35 


ReiniirkM, 


<  At    Ifarvey'a   on    St.  John— fair, 

f      cloudy,  rainy — wind  VV. 
At  River  Ue  f 'Inito — fair. 
Ar;)03took  F;.id — fiiir — wind  N.  W. 

(  At  island  (i  miles  from  mouth  of 

\      Aroostook — fair. 
A'.  Preaquile— fair,  cloudy — w.  S.  E. 
Four  miles  above  Presquile — fair, 
shower  at  night, 
iJeaver  Brook — fair — wind  S.  W. 


Average  temperature  for  Sept  52' 


Little  Machias-clear,  pleas't-w.N.W. 

U  t(  ((  u 

^  Portage  between  Little  Machias 
I     and  Eagle  Lake — fair,  rainy. 

Do.  (at  noon  in  cedar  swamp) — w.  S. 

Do.         "  "    rainy — w.  S. 

Do.  "  "  at  night  rainy. 

Do.         "  "fair-w.N.W. 

Do.         "  "  "      w.N.W. 

At  Eagle  Lake— fair— wind  N.  W. 
At  foot  of  Middle  L.— cloudy— -w.  E. 
At  3d  Lake — rainy — wind  E. 
(  Bakersville— cloudy,  slight  snow — 
{     wind  N.  W. 

Do.    rain  with  snow. 


KflH 

hi 

I 


I 


m 


m\ 


1  i  li; 


I!   I  I" 


jliil 


ii 


!i ! 


52 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  C^  THE 


Day. 

Sun  riae. 

Noon. 

Sun  set. 

Oct  14 

36 

40 

42 

15 

32 

42 

43 

16 

40 

48 

42 

17 

32 

43 

•  18 

28 

42 

^   19 

26 

38 

32 

20 

32 

34 

21 

30 

39 

22 

32 

40 

36 

23 

28 

34 

36 

24 

31 

38 

25 

34 

36 

26 

32 

27 

32 

S6 

.   28 

36 

29 

30 

22 

31 

26 

Remi  rks. 


Bakorsvi.le — fair — w.  W. 
5  Fish  Rivf  r--some  rain — 
/  wind  S.  E. 
\  At  head  of  Middle  lake— 
I  rainy  most  of  the  night 
C  Portage  between  Eagle 
^  lake  and  Little  Machi- 
(;   as. 

^  Mouth  of  Little  Machi- 
>    as — cloudy. 
No.  10- fair.  '    -    ' 

do.       snow  storm. 

do.       snow  and  rain. 
C  4  miles  above  Umquol- 

<  qu3-  <;loudy,  some  snow 
(_   and  rain. 
Mooseluck — fair,  cloudy. 

C  1-2  mi^o  above  La  Bom- 

<  bique — cloudy,  some 
(  «rain. 

At  Umquolqus — rain. 
No..  IJ — cloudy,  with  rain. 

dc.       fair. 

uo.       cloudy. 
No.  7 — snow-storm. 
No.4~faii 


Crops.  The  crops  cultivated  by  the  farmers  of 
this  country,  are  such  as  is  generally  found  growing 
in  other  parts  of  the  State.  - - 

Indian  Corn.  Very  httle  Indian  corn  has  been 
cultivated  here.  The  seasons  for  several  years  past, 
have  been  unfavorable  for  this  crop,  even  in  parts 
of  the  State  which  have  long  been  cleared  and  laid 
open  to  the  influences  of  the  sun.  They  iiave  been 
particularly  severe  here,  where  the  Orest  has  hardly 
been  encroached  upon.  Hence  but  little  attention 
has  been  given  to  a  crop  so  liabl3  to  be  cut  rjf  by 
early  autiimnal  fiosts.     Occasionally,  however,  a 


r 


I' "  HHPMWfMfl 


•Tjiffmmmm-'- " '  "■' '  'P!»iippppiiiH»"w  "nw 


^"""■PHH 


AROOSTOOK   TERRITORY. 


63 


-w.  W. 

3  ruin — 

e  lake— 
e  night. 
1  Eagle 
Machi- 

Machi- 


m. 
rain. 
Jmquol- 
ne  snow 

loudy. 
JO.  Bonx- 
Bome 

lin. 
fitii  rain. 


n. 

ners  of 
rowing 

s  been 
's  past, 
I  parts 
id  laid 
e  been 
hardly 
tention 
rflf  by 
5ver,  a 


crop  has  been  obtained,  equal  in  soundness  and 
weight,  to  any  grown  in  any  other  part  of  the  State. 
Mr.  Goss,  who  resides  on  an  interval  farm  in  No. 
10,  5th  Range,  informed  me  that  in  one  season 
since  he  had  resided  upon  the  riyer,  he  gathered  a 
crop  of  this,  which  weighed  sixty  pounds  per  bushel, 
and  which  was  perfectly  ripe.  At  present,  it  is 
very  uncertain  whether  it  can  be  raised  to  advan- 
tage. It  is  possible,  ihat  when  the  forest  shall  have 
disappeared,  and  the  climate  ameliorated  by  its 
absence,  the  culture  of  Indian  corn  may  become  a 
pursuit  of  very  considerable  importance  to  the  agri- 
cukuralists  of  that  region,  provided  they  should 
cultivate  an  early  variety,  inasmuch  as  much  of  the 
soil  is  well  adapted  to  it.  -^^ 

Wheat.  The  staple  crop  of  the  Aroostook 
farms  is,  and  ever  must  be,  wheat.  For  this  the 
climate,  and  most  of  the  soil,  is  exceedingly  favora- 
ble. The  variety  of  this  grain  mostly  cultivated, 
is  the  spring  wheat,  though  some  experiments  with 
winter  wheat  have  been  eminently  successful.  It  is 
usually  raised  upon  a  "  6Mrn."  Formerly,  many 
were  in  the  habit  of  falling  the  trees  in  ^he  spring, 
burning  as  soon  as  possible,  and  sowing  the  wheat 
immediately.  This  made  it  so  late  before  the  crop 
could  ripen,  that  the  frosts  and  even  snows  of  win- 
ter sometimes  overtook  and  destioyed  it  before  it 
could  be  secured.  Experience  has  taught  them 
a  better  system  of  procedure.  The  best  mode 
undoubtedly  is,  to  fall  the  trees  and  "Zim6"  them, 
(that  is,  cut  off  the  limbs,)  in  June.     In  the  course 


M 


.*.:?:"  s> 


..■■  V 


54 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


of  the  summer  or  fall,  put  in  the  fire,  then  "jtinfe" 
and  "/)t7e,"  and  sow  the  seed  early  in  the  succeeding 
spring.  This  gives  the  wheat  the  advantage  of  an 
early  start,  and  it  ripens  as  early,  or  nearly  so,  as  it 
does  any  where  in  Maine. 

Some  prefer  to  let  the  "  chopping ^'^^  or  trees  that 
are  fell,  lie  until  the  next  spring,  before  they  burn 
them.  When  an  early  burn  can  be  effected,  no 
doubt  this  is  a  very  good  mode.  There  is  then  no 
danger  of  burning  deeply  into  the  soil,  as  is  some- 
times the  case  during  a  dry  time  in  the  summer  or 
fall,  and  the  wheat  has  the  benefit  of  the  stimulus 
of  the  recent  ashes  that  are  made. 
^  On  lands  prepared  as  above,  the  average  crop  is 
twenty  bushels  per  acre. 

I  have  mentioned  that  some  experiments  with 
winter  wheat  have  been  successful,  and  the  promise 
that  these  experiments  give,  that  this  variety  will 
be  as  successful  here  as  any  where,  is  strong  and 
encouraging.  Mr.  Goss,  the  person  just  mentioned, 
has  for  the  last  four  years  cultivated  it  with  tolera- 
able  success.  I  examined  his  crop  last  season 
while  growing,  and  also  after  it  was  harvested. — 
This  was  sown  upon  interval  land,  ploughed,  and 
yielded  after  the  rate  of  thirty  bushels  to  the  acre. 
He  attributes  his  success  to  the  fact,  that  the  ground 
does  not  freeze  deeply  here  during  the  winter.  The 
snow  falling  early  and  remaining  late,  prevents  the 
frost  penetrating  deeply,  and  also  prevents  any  con- 
siderable heaving  of  the  ground  by  alternate  fteess- 
ing  and  thawing  in  the  spring,  and  the  roots  are  not 


mi 


iimi.iipuju«i^ii .  I      i'<p^w<^ipnpppiini|Pfp<« 


rmfiK 


•"^mmmm 


1 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


66 


therefore  thrown  out  and  killed  as  they  otherwise 
would  be  did  not,  the  snow  protect  tliem.  This 
variety  of  wheat  has  also  been  successfully  culti- 
vated in  township  No.  4,  on  the  Aroostook  Road» 
and  on  the  St.  John  river,  above  the  Madawaska 
settlement.  Mr.  Goss's  crop  was  very  fine  ;  the 
straw  grew  long  and  healthy,  and  the  berry  was 
very  plump  and  bright.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that 
experiments  in  regard  to  the  culture  of  the  winter 
variety  of  this  crop  will  be  continued.  Should  it 
linally  be  found  that  it  is  safe  to  cultivate  it,  an  addi- 
tional source  of  profit  and  prosperity  wiU  be  ascer- 
tained. A  country  that  will  afford  both  winter  and 
spring  wheat,  must  be  singularly  favored,  and  need 
not,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  fear  want  or 
famine.  '      ^ 

I  regret  that  I  ann  not  able  to  give  more  accurate 
statistical  information  upon  this  and  the  other  crops ; 
such  as  the  exact  amount  of  increase  per  bushel 
sown — exact  amount  of  crop  to  acre — expense 
per  acre  of  cultivating,  &ic.  The  great  ^\ant  of 
exactness  in  their  operations,  of  whicii  farmers 
almost  every  where  are  guilty,  prevails  among  the 
farmers  here.  Scarcely  any  one  of  them  can  tell 
the  precise  amount  of  ground  cultivated,  quantity 
of  seed  sown,  or  bushels  harvested. 

Their  answers  to  questions  upon  the  subject, 
amount  to  general  estimates.  The  provisions  in 
the  late  law  granting  a  bounty  on  wheat  and  corn, 
and  requiring  the  applicants  to  make  oath  to  the 
amount  of  seed  sown,  acres  cultivated  and  bushels 


4 


m 


s  ♦ 


I   ! 


il  I 


(■■'  I: 


m 


111::! 


66 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OF  THE 


harvested,  will  remedy  this  trouble  in  regard  to  these 
crops,  but  as  the  wheat  was  not  thrashed  when  I 
was  there,  I  must  refer  you  to  such  returns  as  may 
be  m^de  to  the  Legislature.  v    ..  ,  »  .    *. 

The  appearance  of  the  fields  during  the  summer, 
and  the  good  quality  of  the  grain  harvested  in  the 
fall,  would  convince  the  most  faithless  that  this  is 
naturally  a  great  wheat  country.  I  have  been 
informed  that  Mr.  Lewis  cultivated,  in  No.  7,  on 
the  Aroostook  road,  80  acres  of  wheat  and  gathered 
1600  bushels.  I  cannot  vouch  for  the  truth  of  this, 
as  I  did  not  see  Mr.  'Lewi^,  he  not  being  at  home 
at  the  time  I  was  there.  This,  however,  is  but  one 
instance  of  the  many  that  can  be  cited  of  the  suc- 
cess attending  the  cultivation  of  this  golden  crop. 

In  1837,  Fish  and  Wiggins  raised  in  township 
No.  4,  on  the  Aroostook  road,  1250  bushels  of  wheat 
on  50  acres  of  burnt  land,  averaging  as  }ou  will  see, 
25  bushels  to  the  acre.  One  hundred  and  forty  of 
this  was  winter  wheat,  which  gre>^  upon  seven 
acres,  averaging  twenty  bushels  to  the  acre.  In 
1838,  they  raised  in  the  same  township  750  bushels. 
Mr.  Lewis,  who  that  year  resided  in  the  same  town- 
ship, raised  750  bushels. 

In  1837,  there  w'cre  raised  in  thi?  township  6000 
bushels  of  first  rate  wheat,  which  made  an  average 
of  nearly  300  bushels  to  a  family.  Wheat  during 
that  year  was  worth  $1,75  per  bushel.  It  will  be 
remembered  that  the  spring  season  of  this  year  w^as 
very  favorable  for  getting  good  burns,  and  the  sum- 
mer also  favorable  for  the  wheat  crop.     In  1838, 


■  lanijii  I  Jiiiiirii 


wrmr^^^^w^tm 


■^•FppwipRaiMni* 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


57 


hese 


they  raised  but  about  3000  bushels,  owing  to  the 
extremely  wet  spring  season  which  prevented  their 
getting  burns  soon  enough  to  enable  them  to  sow 
sufficiently  early. 

While  speaking  of  the  crops  of  No.  4>,  I  trust  that 
it  will  not  be  an  improper  digression  to  say  some- 
thing more  of  this  township  in  this  place.  To  the 
eye  of  an  agriculturalist  it  appears  like  a  gem  in 
the  wilderness.  Perhaps,  however,  the  circum- 
stances under  which  we  first  saw  it,  may  have 
caused  a  more  vivid  "first  impression"  than  might 
otherwise  have  been  the  case.  Our  party  had 
entered  the  Aroostook  country  in  another  direction, 
and  had  been  for  a  long  time  exploring  the  streams 
and  the  forest. 

We  took  the  unfinishea  part  of  the  road  at  its 
junction  with  the  Aroostook  on  our  return,  and  had 
travelled,  or  rather  wallowed,  through  thirty  miles 
of  mud  and  mire,  during  the  two  first  days  of 
November,  and  those  uncomfortably  stormy.  As 
we  arrived  at  the  end  of  *his  part  of  the  road,  the 
sudden  appearance  of  enclosed  and  cultivated  fields, 
and  of  the  well  graded,  and  handsomely  constructed 
State  road,  stretching  most  invitingly  before  us, 
afforded  a  cheering  and  gratifying  contrast  to  the 
leafless  forest,  and  the  miry  path  behind. 

The  new  and  convenient  barns  and  the  enormous 
stacks  of  wheat  which  occasionally  met  the  eye, 
gave  evidence  of  thrift  and  comfort  among  the  set- 
ters, which  some  older  parts  of  the  State  might 
envy.     In  looking,  first  at  the  forest  on  either  side. 


SB 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


"iilj 


?iii! 


[I'llii, 
lip : 


iil'ii 

'  III 
11 


||i'!!T;|ii 

mm 


r 


reaching,  dense  and  unbroken,  to  the  very  verge  of 
the  distant  horizon,  and  then  to  the  recently  cleared 
and  enclosed  ilelds,  and  the  comfortable  looking 
farm  houses  before  us,  I  could  not  but  feel  a  pride 
in  the  triumph  of  art  over  nature,  and  satisfaction  in 
looking  forward  to  the  time,  and  that  not  very 
remote,  when  the  whole  region  on  either  side,  iiow 
a  wilderness,  would,  by  the  same  means,  be  con- 
verted into  farms,  and  afford  a  home  for  thousands 
of  contented  and  happy  people.  The  first  tree  w^as 
cut  in  this  settleiient  in  1834.  In  passing  along, 
although  there  w^as  considerable  snow  upon  the 
ground  and  more  still  falling,  we  found  many  of  the 
rentiers  with  their  boys  busily  engaged  mjuriking  and 
piling,  and  some  were  ploughing.  Here  was  the 
secret  cause  of  the  change  that  had  taken  place  in 
80  short  a  time.  Industry  had  levelled  the  forest 
and  converted  the  lair  of  the  wild  beast  into  an 
abode  of  civilization.  Industry  had  wrought  the 
change,  and  that  too  unaided  by  a  great  amount  of 
capital,  for  nearly  every  settler  when  he  first  entered 
his  lot,  was  poor  and  possessed  little  else  than  good 
health  and  courage.  Now,  they  have  an  abun- 
dance of  subsistence — are  blessed  with  the  advan- 
tages of  social  life — have  a  school  of  about  forty 
scholars,  and  are  well  supplied  with  missionaries 
of  different  denominations  to  lead  ihem  in  their 
devotional  duties  according  to  the  dictates  of  their 
consciences. 

Rte.     But  very  little  rye  is  cultivated  in  this 
region.     It  is^  however,  a  sure  crop,  and  a  profitable 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


59 


one.  It  is  made  use  of  in  many  parts,  especially  in 
No.  4,  for  fattening  hogs,  combined  with  potatoes 
boiled.  I  saw  a  white  variety  at  Mr.  Fairbanks' 
mill,  the  flour  of  which  is  as  white  as  that  of  Wheat. 
It  is  a  spring  grain,  and  yields  as  much  as  the 
darker  kind. 

Oats.  This  grain  is  pretty  extensively  and 
generally  cultivated,  and  much  use  is  made  of  it 
both  as  a  fodder  before  being  thrashed,  and  as  a 
provender  for  the  horses  and  oxen  employed  in  the 
lumbering  business.  The  common  variety  is  mostly 
the  kind  cultivated.  I  saw  some  fields  of  the  Sibe- 
rian, or  " /lorse-mane"  oat,  as  they  are  sometimes 
called.  The  climate  and  the  soil  suit  them  well, 
and  when  properly  cultivated^  the  crop  seldom  fails. 
Mr.  Fairbanks  and  others  stated  that  they  seldom 
obtained  less  than  fifty  bushels  to  the  acre  on  burnt 
land.  The  price  for  several  winters  past  has  been 
one  dollar  per  bushel. 

Barley.  I  saw  but  few  fields  of  barley — those 
however,  were  very  good.  This  grain  has  not  hith- 
erto been  very  generally  cultivated.  It  is  coming 
very  gradually  into  use,  however,  and  wmH  eventu- 
ally become  an  important  crop  to  the  farmers  of  this 
section.  It  is  a  crop  that  has  not  been  held  in 
so  high  estimation  in  any  part  of  our  State  as  its 
merits  deserve,  although  it  is  now  fast  gaining  favor. 
The  introduction  of  hulling  machines,  will  soon 
make  it  more  of  a  favorite,  and  bring  it  into  more 
general  use.  In  a  part  of  the  country  where  Indian 
corn  cannot  be  safely  relied  upon,  perhaps  there  is 


!r 


/ 


60 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


m 


i!i;i;: 


I, 

■!■■ 


no  other  grain  which  can  be  cultivated  to  greater 
advantage  for  a  substitute,  than  this,  / 

Peas.  Peas  grow  well  in  this  country,  either 
when  planted  alone,  or  sown  with  oats.  I  found  in 
different  places  some  of  the  grey  pea  mixed  with 
the  con  mon  kind.  The  seed  of  this  variety  came 
from  Madawaska.  The  pea  and  oat  crop  is  not  so 
generally  attended  to  as  it  ought  to  be.  As  a  feed 
for  swine,  it  is  ot  great  use,  second,  as  some  think, 
only  to  Indian  corn.  I  could  obtain  no  certain  data 
of  the  amount  which  has  over  been  raised  here  per 
acre.     ' 

Buckwheat.  The  variety  called  Indian  wheat 
in  Kennebec,  but  more  commonly  in  this  region, 
**  Rough  Buckwheat,"  is  very  extensively  culti- 
vated, not  only  on  the  Aroostook,  but  also  on  the 
St.  John  river.  This  grain,  which  is  undoubtedly 
the  true  Tartarian  Buckwheat,  is  said  by  some  to 
be  indigenous  to  this  section  of  the  State,  growing 
wild  in  the  woods,  and  furnishing  food  for  the  par- 
tridges and  wild  fowl.  I  was  credibly  informed  that 
a  Mr.  Murphy,  who  was  the  first  settler  in  the 
Tobique  settlement,  states  that  when  he  first  went 
there,  and  while  there  was  no  clearing  for  many 
miles  distant,  he  killed  partridges  that  had  this  grain 
in  their  crops,  and  that  he  took  it  out  and  sowed  it, 
thereby  obtaining  seed  for  future  use.  How  this 
may  be,  I  am  not  able  to  say.  We  saw  none  grow- 
ing wild  during  our  excursion. 

In  regard  to  this  grain,  there  is  no  doubt  that  its 
growth,  its  great  powers  of  yielding,  as  well  as  its 


^^^^ 


mi^wmmm^^m'mmfmmmmmmmm' 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


61 


uses  in  domestic  economy,  have  been  much  over- 
rated. It  has  been  confidently  stated  by  many  of 
its  advocates,  that  it  would  grow  best  and  yield 
most  on  poor  land.  This  is  a  mistake.  It  likes  a 
warmsandv  loam,  but  it  also  likes  to  have  this  loam 
in  good  tilth  and  of  good  quality.  On  such  a  soil, 
it  will  sometimes  yield  fifty  bushels  from  one  of  sow- 
ing. Some  farmers  on  the  St.  John  river  cultivate 
it  largely.  A  Mr.  Raymond,  of  Wakefield,  N.  B., 
I  am  told,  raised  last  season  nearly  1500  bushels. 
A  gentleman  of  Frederickton  (Mr.  Woodford,) 
informed  me  that  he  sowed,  about  the  middle  of 
June  last,  one  peck  and  a  half  on  one  acre  of  strong 
but  rocky  land,  which  yielded  him  twenty-four 
bushels,  the  whole  cost  of  which,  when  ready  to  be 
sent  to  mill,  was  six  dollars,  making  the  cost  per 
bushel  ;S5  cents.  .  >  ,j 

It  is  much  used  for  fattening  swine  and  poultry, 
and  for  provender  for  horses  and  oxen.  Many  like 
it  for  bread,  but  it  is  not  so  palatable  to  others  as  the 
old  variety.  Care  should  be  used  in  grinding  it. 
If  it  be  ground  fine,  so  as  to  crush  the  hull,  the 
flour  will  have  a  bitterness  of  taste.  To  avoid  this, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  set  the  stones  so  far  apart  as 
to  just  open  the  hull,  and  let  it  escape  without  being 
crushed  at  all.  The  flour  falls  out  and  the  hull 
passes  firom  the  bolt,  merely  opened,  but  destitute  of 
flour.  It  yields,  when  ground  fine,  about  thirty-fi*  e 
pounds  of  flour  to  the  bushel,  but  it  is  much  better 
to  so  grind  it  that  only  twenty-five  pounds  shall  be 
obtained  per  bushel. 


!i 


62 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


In  this  country  it  seems  to  take  the  place  of  Indian 
corn,  and  often  brings  a  dollar  per  bushel. 

It  grows  about  two  feet  high,  has  a  minute  yel- 
lowish green  flour,  and  a  rough  triangular  shaped 
seed.  This  seed  shatters  out  very  easily,  and 
requires  the  utmost  care  in  harvesting  it,  lest  yon 
leave  it  on  the  ground.  The  usual  mode  of  man- 
agement is  to  mow  it  when  about  half  of  the  seed 
has  turned  black ;  then  rake  it  up  into  small  bunches 
and  let  them  lie  for  some  time  to  ripen,  as  it  is  said 
the  rains  do  not  injure  it.  When  gathered,  rugs 
and  cloths  are  laid  in  the  bottom  and  hung  on  the 
sides  of  the  cart  to  catch  what  may  fall  out.  » 

w  There  is  one  objection  to  cultivating  this  crop,  viz: 
it  shells  out  so  easily  that  it  invariably  leaves  more 
or  less  of  its  seed  in  the  ground,  which  thus  becomes 
filled  with  it,  and,  going  upon  the  principle  that  a 
weed  is  a  ** plant  out  of  place, '^^  it  then  becomes 
a  bonafide  weed. 

In  a  country,  however,  where  but  little  Indian 
corn  is  cultivated,  it  is  quite  an  acquisition  to  the 
farmer,  who  puts  it  to  very  many  valuable  uses. 

Beans.  This  crop  does  well  on  the  Aroostook. 
The  early  white  is  cultivated  here  somewhat — but 
little  attention,  however,  is  paid  to  this  or  any  other 
variety.  A  few  for  domestic  use  are  generally 
planted,  but  as  a  field  crop,  I  know  of  no  one  that 
lias  ever  cultivated  them. 

Roots. — Potatoes.  Perhaps  no  part  of  New 
England  is  better  suited  to  the  cultivation  of  most 
of  the  culinary  roots  in  use  among  us,  than  this. 


ill;?'ii 

i'i'-i:l 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


63 


The  potatoes  raised  in  this  country,  when  planted 
in  season,  are  equal  in  quantity  and  quality  to  any 
whatever.  The  climate  and  soil  both  seem  par- 
ticularly congenial  to  this  root.  Nothing  is  \^  anting 
but  greater  facilities  for  getting  them  to  market,  to 
make  their  culture  one  of  the  most  profitable  branches 
of  agricultural  operations  that  can  be  pursued  here. 
The  variety  most  approved,  is  called  the  Christie 
potatoe,  from  the  circumstance  of  their  having  been 
introduced  by  a  Mr.  Christie,  who  resides  there. 
They  are  kno>\n  in  other  parts  of  the  State  by  the 
name  of  the  St.  John  potatie.  No  particular  pains 
are  taken  here  for  this  crop,  or  anxiety  manifested 
to  obtain  a  large  amount  per  acre.  Hence  the 
actual  power  of  the  soil  in  this  respect  has  never 
been  fairly  tested.  JMany  assert  that  they  have 
obtained  three  hundred  bushels  per  acre,  with  com- 
mon management.  Mr  Fitzherbert,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  once  obtained  four  hundred  bushels  on 
something  less  than  an  acre,  but  the  soil  was  good, 
and  he  gave  it  a  good  dressing  with  common  barn- 
yard manure. 

I  am  sorry  to  say,  however,  that  easily  as  this 
root  may  be  raised,  from  neglect  in  attending  to  its 
culture,  a  severe  scarcity  is  not  unfreqnently  felt, 
and  from  that  circumstance  they  have  been  sold  for 
from  eighty  cents  to  a  dollar  per  bushel.  ,   iJi* 

Rut  A  Bag  A.  This  vegetable  can  be  raised 
here  in  great  perfection.  It  is  however  not  gen- 
erally cultivated,  not  so  generally  as  it  should  be, 
oonsidering  its  value  as  an  article  of  food  for  cattle 


f 


64 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


Jf  n 


iff    i 


M 


and  8wino  during  ihc  winter  season.  No  definite 
information  was  obtained  as  tc  the  amount  of  yield 
per  acre,  but  from  the  appearance  of  some  few 
fields  which  I  examined  while  growing,  I  could  see 
no  reason  why  the  farmers  of  this  region  may  not 
outstrip  their  brethren  in  other  parts  of  the  State 
in  the  culture  of  this  root ;  and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  they  will  not  long  neglect  so  valuable  an  article 
of  produce.  Nothing  can  be  more  grateful  to  cattle 
during  the  cold  season,  when  but  little,  save  dry 
forage,  can  be  had  to  sustain  them.  In  1837,  Fish 
and  Wiggin  raised  in  No.  4,  1300  bushels  of  this 
root  among  the  potatoes  that  were  planted  upon  a 
burn.  The  quantity  of  land  is  not  known.  They 
obtained  from  the  same  land  800  bushels  of 
potatoes. 

Beets,  Carrots,  Parsnips,  Onions,  &(;., 
all  flourish  well  here,  and  can  be  raised  with  perfect 
ease  and  success.  The  Sugar  Beet  has  never  been- 
tried,  or  if  cultivated  at  all,  no  experiment  has  been 
instituted  to  ascertain  the  quantity  which  can  be 
obtained  per  acre,  nor  whether  it  will  be  more  or 
less  saccharine  than  when  raised  farther  south. 
There  is  an  opinion  abroad,  among  some,  that  when 
this  root  is  grown  in  warm  regions  the  saccharine 
matter  is  greater  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of 
root,  than  when  it  is  grown  north.  Whether  any 
experiments  have  actually  demonstrated  this  to  be 
the  fact  in  this  country,  I  am  not  able  to  say. 

The  nature  of  the  soil  may  have  an  influence 
upon  the  quality  of  this  root,  but  reasoning  from 


tr 

ai 


mmmmmm 


mm 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


65 


analogy  it  would  Neem  that  it  is  more  fitted  for  a 
cool  than  a  sultry  climate.  The  ro4)t  soemif  to  be  a 
store  house  or  magazine  in  which  nutriment  is  to  be 
preserved  during  the  winter  season  for  the  future 
use  of  the  plant — it  being  a  biennial,  requiring  two 
years  in  which  to  grow  and  perfect  its  seed.  The 
cooler  regions  of  the  temperate  zone,  as  a  general 
rule,  produce  those  kinds  of  roots  in  much  greater 
perfection  as  it  regards  size  and  quantity  than  the 
warmer  portions.  It  is  also  a  pretty  well  estab- 
lished fact,  that  the  northern  limit,  at  which  any 
plant  will  flourish  and  fully  ripen,  will  afford  that 
plant  and  its  fruit  in  greater  perfection,  than  at  the 
southern  limit.  The  Sugar  Beet  is  destined  to 
become  to  the  North,  what  the  Sugar  Cane  is  to 
Che  South,  and  I  can  see  no  good  reason  whatever, 
why  the  farmers  in  the  Aroostook  section  of  our 
State  may  not  find  it  a  safe  and  valuable  business 
to  embark  in  its  culture  and  in  the  manufacture  of 
sugar  from  it.  The  Sugar  Maple  it  is  true  flour- 
ishes here  in  perfection,  and  affords  a  rich  supply  of 
sugar  to  those  inhabitants  who  see  fit  to  attend  to 
the  manufacture.  Yet  it  is  !  elieved  by  those  who 
have  had  experience  in  the  culture  of  the  beet  and 
in  the  manufacture  of  Maple  Sugar,  that  the  for- 
mer will  afford  a  more  ample  source  of  sugar  than 
the  latter,  in  consequence  of  its  requiring  less  labor,, 
all  things  considered.     ^  ^^   "v^^t 

The  improvements  which  have  been  made  and 
are  still  making  in  the  process  of  manufacturing 
Beet  Sugar,  will  soon  render  this  business  as  simple 

9 


r? 


'^i 


^^\ 
J^' 


mm 


66 


AGRICULTURAL  «UttV3Y  OF  THE 


m 
p. 


IF 


and  as  easy  as  &ny  culinary  operation  now  per- 
formed on  the  common  hearth.  The  distance  of 
this  section  from  navigation  and  the  expense  arising 
from  the  transportation  of  foreign  molasses  and 
sugar,  make  it  an  object  of  no  small  importance  to 
enquire  into  the  subject,  and  to  adopt  early  measures 
to  intk'oduce  the  culture  of  this  beet  and  the  manu- 
facture of  sugar  among  them.  It  will  be  seen  that 
I  have  been  speaking  of  what  may  be  done,  rather 
than  what  is  done;  but  as  the  common  beet  grows 
well  there,  and  as  the  Sugar  Beet  will  flourish 
where  the  common  beet  will,  and  as  wherever  the 
Sugar  Beet  will  grow,  sugar  may  be  profitably  made, 
there  is  nothing  to  prevent  successful  operations 
being  carried  on  there.  A  country  that  can  pro- 
duce the  Rock  Maple  and  the  Sugar  Beet  in  per- 
fection, need  not  depend  upon  the  South  for  sugar 
or  molasses. 

Flax.  This  plant  grows  here  remarkably  well^ 
better  perhaps  than  farther  South.  Its  culture 
however  is  not  carried  on  in  any  systematic  manner, 
nor  has  there  been  to  my  knowledge  any  experi- 
ments made  in  regard  to  the  best  mode  of  culture 
in  thitd  region,  or  its  management  after  being 
gathered.  *  r.      , 

Generally,  a  small  patch  is  sown  for  the  purpose 
of  afibrding  thread,  &c.  for  domestic  purposes,  and 
not  for  an  article  for  the  market.  No  new  or 
definite  information,  in  regard  to  its  relative  value 
to  them  as  a  field  crop,  can  be  given.  Should  the 
recent  improvements  in  the  mode  of  dressing  this 


I 


.-  .1. 


ft^f^^twy^pnff:miS9^9m^Wir^ 


Pinwum'ip.firw  ■^.-""TW,'WBJi-" 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


67 


article,  now  being  adopted  in  the  Middle  States, 
become  more  generally  known  and  practised,  it  may 
yet  be  one  of  very  considerable  importance  to  this 
part  of  our  State. 

Fruits.  The  settlement  of  this  country  has 
been  so  recent,  that  it  cannot  yet  be  ascertained 
whether  it  is  or  is  not  vvell  adapted  to  the  growth 
or  the  maturing  of  apples,  pears,  &ic.  Some  apple 
trees  have  been  set  out  in  township  No.  4,  on  the 
Aroostook  road,  which  look  well,  and  which  bid 
fair  to  produce  fruit  at  the  proper  time.  From 
what  information  I  have  been  able  to  obtain  from 
old  people  in  this  State,  I  have  inferred  that  it  is 
necessary  for  the  forest  to  have  been  cleared  from 
the  ground  some  time,  before  apple  trees  will  flourish 
very  well.  It  was  thought  in  the  early  settlement 
of  Kennebec  County,  and  in  many  other  places  in 
Maine,  that  apple  trees  w^ould  never  flourish  well 
in  it,  as  the  first  attempts  were  not  very  successful ; 
but  time  has  proved  the  fallacy  of  this  idea.  It 
may  be  w^ell  to  be  somewhat  cautious  as  to  what 
situation  the  farmer  on  the  Aroostook  should  set 
his  trees.  A  southerly  slope  would  probably  be  the 
best  until  the  country  should  become  more  open, 
and  the  rays  of  the  sun  have  more  chance  for  opera- 
tion. The  apple  tree  grows  well  in  Iloulton.  It 
flourishes  also  in  some  parts  of  Canada,  and  very 
probably  will  ultimately  do  ^^ell  in  this  section. 
The  wild  prune,  the  currant,  the  gooseberry,  the 
cranberry,   common  cranberry,   blue    berry,   wild 


m 


'I 


68 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OF  THE 


i 


i 


'1^ 


'Ili:fl-:| 

I 


If'!-'': 


'I'lli''"'' 

ml'' 


cherry,  &c.  abound  and  come  to  maturity  in  their 
proper  season. 

Grass.  The  different  species  of  grass  which 
are  cultivated  in  New  England,  flourish  here  in 
great  perfection.  I  have  never  seen  better  crops  of 
herds-grass,  clover,  &c.,  than  what  I  found  in  this 
country,  nor  was  better  hay  ever  put  into  a  barn, 
than  that  which  I  found  in  that  of  Mr.  Fairbanks, 
last  autumn. 

The  natural  grasses,  such  as  blue  joint,  &c.  spring 
up  with  great  luxuriance  and  yield  in  profusion. 
Although  they  start  somewhat  late,  there  is  gene- 
rally no  check  to  them  in  their  growth,  and  they 
come  forward  with  astonishing  rapidity.     On  the 
12th  of  June,  on  a  small  interval  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Umquolqus,  the  blue  joint  was  two  and  a  half 
feet  in  height.     Nature  has  undoubtedly  designed 
this  region  for  a  grazing  as  well  as  an  arable  coun- 
try.    It  is  true  that  the  w^inters  are  longer  than  in 
some  other  parts  of  New  England,  but  this,  which 
by  some  is  considered  a  disadvantage,  is  met  and  in 
a  good  degree  counteracted  by  the  abundance  of 
grass  for  pasturage  and  fodder.     Considering  the 
low  price  of  land  and  the  extensive  range  which 
cattle  may  have — the  call,  which  for  a  long  series  of 
years  must  be  made  for  good  oxen,  horses  and  beef 
to  carry  on  the  farming  and  lumbering  operations  of 
the  country,  grass  growing  and  grazing  cannot  but 
be  a  lucrative  business.     If  the  farmer  does  not 
wish  to  keep  stock,  his  hay  will  be  in  demand  at  a 


W 

m 


I.  .4 


W«WI!"H  «  ^ 


Mwi  i.w«wfi<T'«aipf^^«!|g||IPPPP<pi**^<*W"l"^ffiPwmiinHMH 


^^"^^""^""""■V^V^IHiiVMIIIIIII 


AROOSTOOK   TLRRITORY. 


69 


fair  price,  sufficient  to  make  it  an  object  to  enter 
into  the  business  extensively.  Grass  sown  upon  a 
burn  requires  two  years  at  least  to  get  thoroughly 
set.  It  then  affords  a  better  fodder  than  when 
recently  sown.  The  average  amount  of  yield  is  one 
and  a  quarter  ton  per  acre,  and  the  average  price 
is  ^12  per  ton  for  loose  hay,  and  ^I4s  per  ton  for 
screwed  or  pressed. 

Agricultural  implements.  In  a  country 
where  all  are  pioneers,  and  where  comparatively 
few  have  any  great  amount  of  capital  to  begin  with, 
it  cannot  be  expected  that  agricultural  improve- 
ments would  receive  much  attention,  especially 
when  the  apathy  in  regard  to  these  things  in  the 
older  and  more  wealthy  parts  of  the  State,  does 
not  offer  any  very  powerful  example  to  stimulate 
the  back  woodsman  beyond  the  necessary  opera- 
tions of  subduing  the  forest  and  merely  raising  his 
bread.  Very  little  ploughing  is  as  yet  done,  as 
most  of  the  crops  are  raised  on  a  "fcitrn;"  and  as 
roads  are  not  yet  laid  out  and  constructed,  no  other 
vehicle  except  the  common  sled  is  much  used  by 
the  farmers  on  the  river.  I  found  here  the  thresh- 
ing floor  and  fan  of  olden  time.  The  thrashing 
floor  is  merely  a  sufficient  number  of  logs,  which, 
when  hewed  square  and  placed  side  by  side,  will 
make  a  platform  eight  or  ten  feet  wide,  having  sides 
raised  two  or  three  feet  in  height  on  which  the 
grain  is  laid  and  thrashed  by  the  common  flail. 
The  fan  is  formed  by  semicircle  of  light  board,  say 
three  feet  in  diameter,  having  a  rim  around  the 


i 


I 


70 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


I 


^1 

Si 

i'Si  ] 

m 


I 

i 

III  ii>>- ' 


m 


circamference  of  thin  wood  and  a  handle  on  each 
side  to  manage  it.  In  this  fan  the  grain  is  taken 
up  and  shaken  about,  tossing  it  up  occasionally,  to 
catch  the  air  to  blow  off  the  chaflf.  It  is  also  waved 
back  and  forth  over  the  grain  as  it  lies  in  the  heap, 
and  the  chaff  thus  blown  away. 

I  found  a  very  good  thrashing  nnachine  at  Mr. 
Fairbanks',  made  by  himself,  and  propelled  by 
water.  It  was  made  in  the  usual  form  of  the  spike 
or  scutching  machine.  A  cylinder  of  wood  in 
which  were  placed  teeth  made  of  round  bolt  iron. 
A  part  of  the  teeth  of  the  bedding  were  made  of 
wood,  which  I  am  informed  answered  very  well 
indeed. 

In  No.  4,  I  found  Pitts'  Horse  Power  and 
Thrasher  in  active  operation.  The  large  quantities 
of  grain  raised  in  this  place  make  such  machines 
very  desirable  and  diminish  the  labor  of  getting  it 
out  very  much  indeed. 

RoAps.  A  liberal  policy  in  constructing  good 
roads  through  the  Public  Domain,  is  undoubtedly 
the  best  policy  to  be  pursued.  It  at  once  opens  the 
country  as  it  were  to  the  inspection  of  the  world, 
and  induces  many  to  enter  and  settle,  who  would 
not  otherwise  leave  the  older  settled  parts  of  the 
State.  It  is  important  however,  that  these  roads 
should  be  laid  out  in  the  most  judicious  manner,  so 
as  to  connect  the  most  important  points  of  the 
country,  and  at  the  same  time  throw  open  as  large 
a  quantity  of  settling  land  to  the  emigrant  as  possi- 
ble.    Indeed  it  would  seem  advisable  to  conduct 


nil.  „i  . 


WWPP^ 


<l|ilfllllligiiliUiiiwi.  uji  viMW 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


71 


it 


the  roads  through  the  best  settling  land,  even  at  the 
risk  of  being  more  circuitous  and  incurring  more 
expense.  The  Aroostook  road,  as  laid  out  to  the 
river,  appears  to  have  been  very  happily  located  in 
this  respect.  But  from  the  Aroostook  to  the  Mad- 
awaska  settlement  it  appears,  from  what  observa- 
tions I  could  make,  to  pass  through  a  tract  of  coun- 
try less  abounding  in  good  settling  land  than  if  it 
were  laid  out  farther  west  or  east  of  its  present 
location.  There  are  two  courses  on  the  west  side 
of  its  present  position  which  it  would  be  well  to 
examine  thoroughly.  First  up  the  Great  Machias 
and  west  of  the  Upper  Eagle  lake,  thence  bearing 
easterly  till  it  strikes  Fish  river  terminating  at  the 
Junction  of  this  river  with  the  St.  John — or  second, 
up  the  east  side  of  the  Little  Machias  and  the 
Upper  Eagle  lake,  and  crossing  the  stream  which 
connects  the  Upper  lake  with  the  one  immediately 
below,  and  thence  running  down  on  the  westerly 
side  of  Fish  river,  as  before  mentioned.  An- 
other avenue  which  it  would  be  desirable  for  the 
State  to  open,  would  be  from  the  to\>^n  of  Houlton 
to  the  mouth  of  Presquile,  and  thence  to  Mada- 
w\iska  settlement.  A  road  from  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Masardis  or  St.  Croix  to  the  Grand  Falls  of 
the  Aroostook,  would  give  as  many  thoroughfares 
through  this  territory  perhaps  as  the  State  ought  to 
construct.  The  various  connecting  roads  should  be 
made  by  settlers  or  proprietors. 

The  late  Surveyor  General,  Dr.  Whipple,  very 
politely  furnished  me  with  a  plan  of  a  road  running 


n 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OF  TIIR 


V  I 


ir;   X 


mr 


from  the  St.  Croix,  by  Pollard's  Mills,  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Aroostook.  It  passes  diagonally  through 
the  townships  belonging  to  Maine,  which  course,  in 
case  3Iassachusetts  should  decline  her  assistance,  it 
would  be  well  to  adopt,  as  it  is  as  short  a  route 
as  could  probably  be  selected.  If,  however,  Mas- 
sachusetts would  cooperate  with  her  usual  liberality 
and  energy,  it  would  undoubtedly  be  best  to  follow 
the  course  of  the  river,  as  for  a  number  of  years 
such  a  route  would  accommodate  the  greatest  num- 
ber of  settlers,  and  always  be  a  road  of  much 
travel.* 

Geology.  Though  I  was  required  to  examine 
the  Geology  of  the  country  through  which  I  passed ; 
yet,  as  it  has  been  so  recently  examined  by  our  inde- 
fatigable State  Geologist,  who  has  reported  thereon, 
it  would  be  a  work  of  supererogation  forme  to  report 
upon  the  same  subject;  especially  as  a  narration  of 
the  facts  would  be  merely  a  recapitulation  of  his  obser- 
vations. I  shall  therefore  merely  bear  testimony  to 
the  able  and  faithful  manner  in  which  he  has  per- 
formed this  part  of  his  task.  Some  recent  discov- 
eries of  fetid  limestone  have  been  made  in  No.  1 1 
5th  Range,  since  his  visit  *o  that  country,  owing  to 
clearing  and  burning,  which  laid  bare  the  rocks  and 
which  were  before  hidden.  Slate,  limestone,  and 
graywacke  are  the  principal  rock  formations  at 
present  visible.  No  granite  formations  were  seen 
by  our  party  on  the  Aroostook  or  its  tributaries. 
The  characteristics  of  the  rock  formations,  as  Dr. 


The  plan  is  deposited  with  the  Board  of  Internal  Improvements. 


'  I II  muftmwmmmmfmwmn^mm^^mr 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


73 


th 
in 


Jackson  observes,  indicate  coal  or  anthracite,  but 
it  is  very  possible  that  this  region  is  the  extreme 
western  limit  of  the  coal  formation  which  occurs  in 
the  Provin^ses  east  of  this.  It  may  be  here  observed 
that  any  country  which  has  a  good  soil,  plenty  of  lime, 
iron  and  coal,  is  emphatically  a  rich  country.  All  of 
those  requisites,  except  the  last,  are  abundant  on 
the  Aroostook,  and  the  place  of  the  last  will  be  for 
many  years  supplied  by  the  immense  forest  which 
covers  the  country,        •  /  .  :..;!,! ; .^ ; •;!( 

State  Farm.  I  avail  myself  of  the  suggestion 
of  a  .friend  to  recommend  the  establishment  of  a 
State  Farm  in  this  region.  There  are  many  rea- 
sons why  such  an  institution  would  be  of  great 
utility  to  this  section  of  the  country,  and  highly 
beneficial  to  the  State  at  large.  Lands  of  any 
quality  and  in  any  quantity  can  be  selected.  Lum<* 
ber  for  buildings  and  fixtures  is  at  hand,  already 
belonging  to  the  State.  .;,...  -  Jv  j^*^  ;. 
Hi  The  object  of  it  should  be  to  introduce  the  various 
breeds  of  cattle,  sheep,  hogs  and  other  stock ;  to  cul- 
tivate the  various  crops  which  it  is  desired  to  accli- 
mate, and  the  properties  of  which  it  is  wished  to  test 
In  this  latitude ;  to  introduce  the  various  fruits  which 
would  probably  grow,  and  thus  form  a  source  whence 
the  settler  could  look  for  a  supply  to  commence  his 
operations  or  to  renovate  his  stock  and  crops  when 
clegonerated  or  exhausted.  I  am  aware  that  this 
may  be  considered  visionary  to  many,  nor  do  I 
know  thfit  any  thing  of  the  kind  has  as  yet  been 
eommenced  in  any  of  the  States,  but  in  Europe, 

10 


Hi 


u 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


m 


hn'i. 


I '3 


i 


National  farms  are  not  uncommon,  and  the  citizens 
of  this  Republic  are  not  unfrequently  benefited  by 
importations  from  them. 

The  Merino  Sheep  from  the  National  or  King's 
flock  in  Spain,  and  from  the  National  farm  at 
Rambouillet  in  France;  the  Saxony  from  the 
Electoral  flocks  in  Germany,  by  which  our  own 
country  has  become  a  rival  in  wool  growing  with 
many  of  the  kingdoms  of  the  old  world,  may  be 
mentioned  as  instances  of  the  great  and  extended 
good  which  has  arisen  from  similar  establishments 
abroad.  There  is  one  advantage  to  be  considered 
in  locating  a  farm  in  this  part  of  our  domain.  It 
is  the  most  northern  section  of  our  State,  and  we 
might  be  pretty  well  assured,  that  whatever  came 
to  maturity  here,  would  also  mature  in  any  other 
part  of  New  England. 

The  expense  of  commencing  need  not  be  great, 
as  the  object  is  utility  rather  than  splendor;  plain 
practical  excellence  rather  than  useless  show.  It 
is  believed  that  under  the  management  of  a  man  of 
good  sense  and  practical  skill,  such  an  establishment 
would  soon  pay  its  expenses  and  become  a  source 
of  good  stock  and  seeds,  and  a  pattern  worthy  of 
imitation. 

General  remarks. — Resources.  It  will 
be  natural  to  enquire  what  are  the  resources  of  this 
part  of  the  State?  I  answer,  they  are  obviously 
more  than  is  found  in  many  tracts  embracing  the 
same  amount  of  territory.  In  the  first  place  the 
lumber  stands  most  prominent.    At  present  it  is 


{ 


wmm 


AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


75 


the  best  portion  of  Maine  for  lumber,  although  as 
it  regards  pine,  there  is  not  as  many  trees  to  be 
found  upon  an  acre  as  in  some  other  sections;  yet 
what  grows  here,  is  of  an  excellent  quality,  and 
readily  commands  the  highest  price.  The  other 
varieties  of  lumber,  such  as  cedar  and  hackmatac, 
are  very  abundant  and  have  not  yet  been  disturbed. 
Second — The  large  amount  of  good  soil,  which  by 
proper  attention  will  afford  a  surplus  of  produce  for 
the  use  of  less  favored  portions  of  the  State. 
Third — Its  mineral  resources,  especially  lime,  will 
be  a  source  of  profit  and  comfort  to  the  residents 
as  soon  as  enterprize  shall  take  hold  sufficiently 
strong  to  place  it  within  the  reach  of  the  consumer. 
Indeed,  I  see  no  reason  why,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
years,  the  inhabitants  of  the  valley  of  the  Aroostook 
may  not  send  out,  as  a  surplus  over  and  above  what 
they  may  need  for  home  consumption,  large  amount 
of  lumber  of  every  description,  wheat,  oats,  rye, 
barley,  potatoes,  beef,  pork,  wool,  live  stock,  such 
as  neat  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses,  in  abundance. 
There  is  no  natural  obstacle  in  the  way  to  prevent 
this  being  done. 

^  OBJECTIOrrS    TO    THE    COUNTRY.       It    wiU    h? 

also  natural  to  ask  what  are  the  objections  to  settle- 
ing  in  this  country?  That  there  objections  in  the 
minds  of  almost  every  one  who  has  been  brought 
up  in  an  old  settled  country,  where  all  the  comforts 
of  civilized  life  abound,  I  am  aware;  but  these 
objections  are  of  a  nature  which  time,  industry  and 
perseverance  will  do  away.     The  emigrant  who 


>  I 
1 1 


76 


AGRICULTURAL  SURVEY  OP  THE 


N- 


■;,,,  I 


11 


goes  into  the  forest  to  prepare  or  make  a  farm  for 
himself,  must  reflect  before  he  leaves  the  pleasant 
abodes  and  cultivated  fields  where  he  has  been  wont 
tc  enjoy  the  accumulated  convenience  of  years  of 
toil  and  labor,  that  he  must  of  necessity  leave  these 
behind,  and  take  the  world  in  the  ^'rough*^  as 
it  were.  He  must  remember,  that  he  goes  there, 
not  to  fmd  the  pleasures  or  the  refinement  of  the 
town  or  the  city,  but  to  create  them  for  himself — 
to  manufacture  them,  so  to  speak,  from  the  raw 
material — to  establish  and  build  himself  up  from 
small  and  mayhap  from  humble  beginning.  The 
first  troubles  that  will  be  sure  to  introduce  themselves 
to  the  stranger  are  the  black  flies  and  musquitoea 
during  the  warm  season.  These  however,  are  no 
more  abundant  here,  than  in  e\\  new  place  where 
the  forest  abounds.  Every  pioneer  has  had  to 
encounter  them,  and  they  gradually  disappear  as 
the  country  becomes  cleared  and  cultivated.  The 
lack  of  Mills  has  heretofore  been  a  serious  objec- 
tion, but,  thanks  to  the  liberality  of  the  State,  by 
the  encouragement  oflfered  in  the  act  of  1838,  this 
will  soon  be  obviated.  Early  frost  may  be  con- 
sidered as  a  serious  objection  by  some.  This  how- 
ever is  one,  which  may  also  be  considered  as  resting 
for  the  few  last  years  upon  all  New  England.  It 
is  true,  that  as  a  general  rule,  the  frost  is  earlier 
here  than  in  Massachusetts ;  but,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Indian  corn,  all  the  staple  crops  of  our 
agriculture  ripen  perfectly  well.  ^^^v  ^      - 


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AROOSTOOK  TERRITORY. 


77 


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It 

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Want  OF  SCHOOLS  AND  religious  privile- 
ges. AH  new  countries  are  liable  to  this  objection. 
It  is  one  which,  for  the  first  few  years,  is  almost 
inevitable;  but  it  is  nevertheless  astonishing  how 
soon  the  New  Englanders  make  arrangements  to 
meet  these  wants.  Almost  before  they  have  pro- 
cared  the  necessary  buildings  for  their  own  protec- 
tion, and  ere  the  *■' first  burn*^  has  done  smoking, 
the  school  mistress  may  be  seen,  with  a  bevy  of 
urchins  about  her,  listening  to  her  instructions;  and 
the  missionary  is  made  welcome  to  the  settlement, 
and  the  utmost  attention  given  while  he  leads  in 
the  devotional  duties  of  the  Sabbath. 

The  lack  of  intelligent  and  refined  society  operates 
as  an  objection  in  the  minds  of  many.  It  is  true, 
that  the  same  amount  of  refinement  cannot  be  found, 
and  indeed  cannot  be  expected,  in  a  new  country 
like  this,  where  the  wilderness  stretches  between 
the  several  settlements  for  many  a  league  unbroken 
and  undisturbed,  save  occasionally  by  the  clearing 
made  by  some  one  who  has  had  the  courage  to  leave 
the  busy  haunts  of  men  and  wrestle  in  solitude  as 
it  were  with  nature  herself;  but  on  the  other  hand, 
if  you  do  not  find  the  refinements,  you  also  do  not 
find  many  of  the  follies  which  too  often  accompany 
those  refinements,  and  make  fashionable  life  ridicu- 
lous. As  for  intelligence,  the  yankee  who  goes  into 
the  wilderness  or  elsewhere,  carries  it  with  him^  and 
the  schools  before  mentioned  are  sure  to  perpetuate  it. 

Should  you  advise  me  to  go  to  the  Aroostook? 
is  a  question  often  put.     Before  answering  th«s,  J 


78 


ACJRICULTURAL  SURVEY. 


1 1 


1^ 


U\ 


would  use  the  characteristic  privilege  of  asking,  who 
are  you? 

If  you  are  already  well  situated — have  a  good 
farm — live  in  a  pleasant  neighbourhood,  and  are 
blessed  with  the  common  goods  and  chattels  neces- 
sary for  the  well-being  and  happiness  of  your  family, 
stay  where  you  are — go  neither  east  nor  west.  Are 
you  a  man  of  feeble  health,  with  little  capital,  una- 
ble to  undergo  the  severe  toils  of  subduing  the  forest, 
and  unable  to  hire?  It  would  not  be  advisable  for  you 
to  go  there.  Are  you  idle — lazy — shiftless  and 
vicious?  Go  not  thither.  Better  stay  where,(if  you 
cannot  reform)  alms  houses  and  prisons  are  more 
abundant  to  administer  to  your  necessities,  or  to 
ensure  your  safe  keeping.  Are  you  in  straitened 
circumstances,  but  in  good  health,  with  a  robust 
and  hardy  family  of  children  to  assist  you?  Go  to 
the  Aroostook.  If  possible,  take  a  supply  of  pro- 
visions with  you  to  last  till  you  can  get  a  crop — 
select  a  good  lot  of  land,  be  prudent  and  industri- 
ous, and  in  three  years  you  can  look  around  upon 
your  productive  acres  and  your  well  filled  garners 
with  satisfaction.  Are  you  a  young  man  just  start- 
ing in  life,  but  with  no  capital,  save  a  strong  arm — 
good  courage,  and  a  narrow  axe?  Go  to  the  Aroos- 
took ;  attend  assiduously  and  carefully  to  your  busi- 
^ness;  select  a  lot  suitable  fb**  your  purpose,  and  with 
itke  common  blessings  of  providence,  you  will,  in  a 
very  few  years,  find  yourself  an  independent  free- 
holder, with  a  farm  of  your  own  subduing,  and 
with  a  capital  of  your  own  creating. 


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»»■ 


NOTE.— [Page  37.] 

(a)  These  remarks  were  written  before  the  late  troubles 
took  place  in  regard  to  the  trespassers  on  the  Public  Lands. 
Those,  however,  who  have  been  stationed  on  Fish"  rivf^r, 
are  undoubtedly  aware  of  the  trouble  they  would  have 
had  to  get  to  that  station,  had  they  not  gone  in  on  the  ice 
during  the  winter. 


:n^- 


ERRATA.    Page  21— 9th  line  fVom  bottom,  for  <'  puddingitone  con- 
glomerate,"  road  puddingstone  (conglomerate.) 

Page  39 — 6th  line  from  bottom,  for  *^  both  branches,"  read  both  hank$. 


<v 


'^«*; 


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